straight worktop.......curved wall!

[andywatson]

Hi,

I just tried to fit a 3.2m laminate worktop to my kitchen, but discovered the wall is quite a way out of true. There is a bulge in the middle, and one end is 12mm off the wall, the other end is 18mm.

I was hoping to bridge any gaps using a 12mm thick matching upstand, but obviously the gap is too wide at one end. The laminate upstand also cannot be used where the integral hob is going to be positioned, so although there is a smaller gap there, it is still unsightly.

My current plans are:

a) cut a slot into the plaster and recess the centre of the worktop. Obviously the wall bulges at the bottom too so I would also need to trim the back of the bases of the units too, to bring the units back further so the units don't protrude. This sounds like a pretty major job, and I am not sure if the final quality of the finish would be satisfactory!

b) Tile the back wall between the worktop and the wall units. I would need a very thick layer of adhesive though to cover sufficient depth.

c) Tile the back wall as above with a "normal" layer of tiling, and then add the upstand as well.

Does anyone have any comments, or a plan d)?

 

[Scrit]

1. Scribe the rear of the worktop to fit the wall and trim the cabinets to match

2. Position the units further out from the wall and install a wider worktop (e.g. 670mm breakfast bar with one edge sawn off) and again scribe to wall

3. Position standard worktop and cabs leaving the gap then pack-out and level up plastering before titiling (you did say you could plaster and own a darby didn't you?)

4. Position standard worktop and cabs leaving the gap then cover gap with wooden moulding before tiling.

5. Move house

 

[markie]

1. Scribe the rear of the worktop to fit the wall and trim the cabinets to match

2. Position the units further out from the wall and install a wider worktop (e.g. 670mm breakfast bar with one edge sawn off) and again scribe to wall

3. Position standard worktop and cabs leaving the gap then pack-out and level up plastering before titiling (you did say you could plaster and own a darby didn't you?)

4. Position standard worktop and cabs leaving the gap then cover gap with wooden moulding before tiling.

5. Move house

6. Knock off the plaster and get it skimmed level.

 

[big-all]

thanks scit you beat me to it
think i will have another ouzo

 

[andywatson]

Thankyou very much for taking the time/effort to reply.

I will have a good think

 

[1511]

M/PB01 Trend Perfect Butt Profile Copying & Scribe Tool



This scribe tools is really good for scribing worktops to walls, remember you have to add on to take off so a wider worktop in the first place may have to be used or profile the cabinets in the same manner to the wall.

 

[Scrit]

M/PB01 Trend Perfect Butt Profile Copying & Scribe Tool

Or alternatively large washer and pencil - somewhat cheaper

But there still isn't enough depth of worktop unless the carcass rears are trimmed:

570mm : Std. carcass depth (front to rear)
_20mm : Thickness of door with stand-off for hinge

590mm : Total

600mm: Standard depth of top

Depends whether or not you want the door edges to be protected from overflows/spills...

Scrit

 

[1511]

Nice idea scrit with the pencil and large washer, but how do u keep the washer in place from slipping down the pencil?

 

[Scrit]

Nice idea scrit with the pencil and large washer, but how do u keep the washer in place from slipping down the pencil?

Practice . You've obviously not been in the trades too long if you haven't seen this one. The washer is laid flat on the worktop against the wall, the lead of the pencil is on the inside. This is just how Trend's Perfect Butt works - only it's cheaper and has been around since gawd only knows when. How did you think it worked?

Scrit