Stuart turner monsoon shower pump not turning off...

[chrisw1975]

Hi guys any shower pump experts out there that may be able to help.
My Stuart turner monsoon pump will not turn off any ideas what could be the cause?
We usually leave it switched in as without it the water pressure is quite poor and it does make a massive difference to the pressure on all the taps in the house,but today it's constantly running so I've had to switch it off..
I've tried the obvious and checked for any running taps it everything's turned off...any ideas please..??

 

[Madrab]

Flow switch/reed issue possibly, these are what register when a tap is opened and kick the pump into life. Sounds like you have one that is sticking open.

Page 23 - http://www.stuart-turner.co.uk/medi...gle-and-Twin-ShowerPump-WholeHousePump-IG.pdf

 

[Tanvir_K8552]

Hi, I have a Stuart turner pump and it runs even when no taps are on. No leaks, I've done the magnet test on one of the reed switches and the pump turns off when waving a magnet in front of it. Will replacing the reed switch solve the issue?

I know this thread is old but it's doing my head in.

Many thanks if there's a reply.

Tan

 

[just pumps]

Yes should do as you`ve proved it sticks

 

[Tanvir_K8552]

Yes should do as you`ve proved it sticks

Thanks a million! Have a replacement on the way, will update if it solves the issue. Thank you so much once again!!!

 

[YorkshireMidge]

Just bear in mind that the flow switch is two components - the reed switch strapped around the outlet, and a float inside with a magnet that moves when you turn the shower valve on. It's possible one of the two float switches is stuck/gunged up - so a reed is operating correctly. It's easy to test this by simply cutting the thin cable ties that secure the reeds to the collar (assuming you have a couple of new ties handy to strap them back on afterwards) and move them away from the collar one at a time and see if the pump stops.

If a reed is correctly operating due to a stuck float/magnet, it's possible your test magnet is interfering with the magnetic field and forcing the reed tips apart. i.e. normally on a Stuart Turner pump, sticking a test magnet near the reed causes it's tips to attract and the pump to turn ON.

 

[Tanvir_K8552]

Just bear in mind that the flow switch is two components - the reed switch strapped around the outlet, and a float inside with a magnet that moves when you turn the shower valve on. It's possible one of the two float switches is stuck/gunged up - so a reed is operating correctly. It's easy to test this by simply cutting the thin cable ties that secure the reeds to the collar (assuming you have a couple of new ties handy to strap them back on afterwards) and move them away from the collar one at a time and see if the pump stops.

If a reed is correctly operating due to a stuck float/magnet, it's possible your test magnet is interfering with the magnetic field and forcing the reed tips apart. i.e. normally on a Stuart Turner pump, sticking a test magnet near the reed causes it's tips to attract and the pump to turn ON.

Well placing the magnet turns it off and on on demand, it's currently always on and able to turn it off with the magnet trick until a tap is opened where it'll turn on again and not turn off. The reed switch in question is loose anyway, so I think I'll just take it off and replace and hope that sorts the issue out.

Cleaning the float inside is a slightly bigger job I hope not to delve into

 

[YorkshireMidge]

Well placing the magnet turns it off and on on demand, it's currently always on and able to turn it off with the magnet trick until a tap is opened where it'll turn on again and not turn off. The reed switch in question is loose anyway, so I think I'll just take it off and replace and hope that sorts the issue out.

Cleaning the float inside is a slightly bigger job I hope not to delve into

I hope it is the reed as its a few minute job to change one. But the advantage of taking the reeds off the collars to test them properly, is you also have a potential workaround irrespective of whether the cause is reed or float. i.e. the reeds are wired in parallel, and there may be enough flow in the correctly operating side to switch the pump on and off normally.

 

[Dangee]

A common cause of negative head pumps to come on by itself is a very small let by on a toilet flush valve.

 

[Tanvir_K8552]

A common cause of negative head pumps to come on by itself is a very small let by on a toilet flush valve.

I've checked everywhere for leaks and can't seem to find anything, behind the toilets, bath taps, the lot. Even checked for air locks and did the old force the water through the pipework to remove any apparent air locks.

I'll change the reed switch this weekend and update if it has resolved the issue. Really appreciate the input from everyone

 

[Nevs]

More often than not it's the crappy rubber washers that Stuart Turner fit to the flow switches, which distort & stick when they get a bit too hot. You can get much better silicone heatproof washers on eBay, cheaply:-

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/133324946757

 

[YorkshireMidge]

More often than not it's the crappy rubber washers that Stuart Turner fit to the flow switches, which distort & stick when they get a bit too hot. You can get much better silicone heatproof washers on eBay, cheaply:-

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/133324946757

I knew they could stick but didn't know why - so thanks for posting.

 

[ANaggingFeeling]

Thanks to the contributors, you might have just saved me a load of cash and awful language.
I didn't need a spanner or a drink afterward, thank the gods.

I had the 'stuck on' issue. You need a strong magnet (I suspect strong).
I read elsewhere that the pump will shut off if it over heats (after approx 10mins). I didn't want that feature interfering with my diagnostics, so I turn the leccy/power off frequently while fussing with this stuff.

I have a mild water hammer effect that I don't want to fix as it is a diagnostic tool for leaks and kids leaving taps running.

When the pump stayed on, I was confident that I didn't have a leak or running taps.

I confirmed this by powering off the pump and closing the out going valves (I have a twin pump) on the flexi connectors
and turned on the power. The pumps sprang to action, so this isn't a leak.
IMPORTANT. Open the valves on flexi connectors again.

Tried the magnet (mild and strong) on the reeds. The pump didn't stop.

I turned off the power and released the zip tie on one of the reeds (cold). I turned on the power and the pump fired up, I tested the magnet against the released reed, both ends. Nothing, pump still running. Powered off and re-attached.

I released the other reed (hot), power on, nothing, no pumping! Bingo, double checked, by using the magnet on the reed, both ends and the pump fired on and off.

This means the reed and the control board are good. So it was the magnetic float in the hot outlet that was stuck. I took the strong magnet and stroked in a downward motion where the reed is to be attached a couple of times, then tested with the reed. The pump fired on, so I removed the reed, and used the other pole of the magnet. Opposing poles forced the magnetic float to free itself. I held the reed back in place the pump didn't fire, perfect. I cycled the power, all good the pump didn't come on.

IMPORTANT. Did you open the flexi connector valves from earlier?

I then tested at the taps that are fed from the pump. Everything worked the pump shut off when the taps did.

I firmly reconnected the zip ties on both reeds and verified all valves were fully opened.

I accept that if the float jammed once, it will no doubt do it again. But I have a low effort, low impact do-fer fix now.

Thanks to those here for the ideas and pointers.

 

[YorkshireMidge]

Pleased this posting helped you to work out what was going on, and a great idea to try and use another strong magnet to try and move the stuck flow switch you had.

But like you say, there is a fair chance it might reoccur. As well as the washers mentioned earlier in this thread, it could also be a build of of limescale causing the flow switch to stick.

For example, we also have a Grunfos UPA 15-90N flow activated booster pump for the tank fed hot water to our taps, and that decided one day not to turn itself off. When I took it out of circuit, the flow switch (which is kinda like a paddle on this type of pump) was stuck, and when I freed it off, some tiny bits of limescale dropped out. We don't live in hard water area, but the pump had been in for so many years, deposits had clearly built up over time.

If you ever experience your Stuart Turner pump intermittently cutting OUT during use, this is worth a read as it had me scratching my head for a while.

Stuart Turner Monsoon shower pump intermittent cut out fault - fixed

Had an interesting fault on my Stuart Turner 2 bar Monsoon pump that I thought I'd share as it only seems possible to buy third party control boards for this type of pump - and even they cost upwards of £20. The pump would intermittently cut out after it had been on a number of minutes. Turning...

www.diynot.com

 

[mobile73]

Hi, I know this is an old post, but not sure if to add to this or start a new so trying this first! We have a Stuart Turner pump which pumps our whole house as the non mains pressure is so low. Recently I have noticed that if a tap is turned on, toilet flushed etc., the pump remains on indefinitely. Strangely, going to any other tap in the house and running that for a new seconds turns the pump off again and it in general remains that way. I don't know much about plumbing or electrics but before I get a plumber in and starts costing me thousands for new pump etc., has anyone experienced this before or know if this is repairable or will need replacing? Thanks for any advice