Stuck TRV

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30 Mar 2007
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Hertfordshire
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I've done as your FAQ suggested, but I can't get the pin to shift. How hard dare I hit it with the hammer? What's the next move? I can't think why the pin should be out as we've never turned off this rad, which is behind a radiator cabinet.
 
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don't hit it with a hammer

you can let a drip or two of WD40 run down the pin and let it soak in overnight.

then get a steel soupspoon, hold the bowl in the palm of your hand, and press down on the pin. The shape of the bowl will help the pin to stay upright rather than bending sideways. The bowl will allow the force to be spread over the palm of your hand without the pin sticking in you.
 
then get a steel soupspoon, hold the bowl in the palm of your hand, and press down on the pin. The shape of the bowl will help the pin to stay upright rather than bending sideways. The bowl will allow the force to be spread over the palm of your hand without the pin sticking in you.[/quote]

It may be stuck in the closed position. If it is, carefully pull with a pair of pliers, and ease up and down. Hitting with a hammer may well be counter productive :eek:
 
Thanks, both. I'd already done a little spray with WD40 and replaced the valve top and turned it to the max open position and then switched on and lo and behold the heat came on this time.
 
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If you do pull the pin, don't pull too hard. You may pull the pin right out and then drop it, and water will spray out and you will be embarrassed. Not that I would know :oops:
 
on a lot of trvs the pin sits in a dry pocket and moving it up and down or wd40 will have no affect whatsoever as its usually the valve seating that has stuck to the body of the valve in off position and a gentle tap either to valve or pin is the only way to free it.
 
ive never known any good to come from pulling the pin with pliers, it will just pull it out of the valve seating.
tap it with a hammer, wd40 wont do anything, the problem is sediment getting stuck to the pin in the flow of water whilst the valve is in a closed or partially closed position, when the pin trys to retract, the sediment prevents the pin coming up through the shaft. The tapping is to get the sediment to drop off.
 
WD40 stands for Water Dispalcement- it will dry the area.

A gentle tapping with a BIG hammer or a 'toffee' hammer will be effective. I use my Bacho shifters to gently tap the pin until it can no longer stand being hit on the head and decides to pop out :D
 
While I dont disagree with any of the suggestions, I can personally state the pull and push method has worked on various ocasions for me. But of course it depends on WHY the pin is stuck, and other methods will work.

Pretty much like life generally.[/list]
 
Fireman wrote
While I dont disagree with any of the suggestions, I can personally state the pull and push method has worked on various ocasions for me. But of course it depends on WHY the pin is stuck, and other methods will work.

Why should pulling the pin, or rather CAREFULLY withdrawing the pin to its limit, will make the valve operate? It is not the pin that is holding back the 'dam' but the washer/ seal that the pin acts on:cool:
 
If you do pull the pin, don't pull too hard. You may pull the pin right out and then drop it, and water will spray out and you will be embarrassed. Not that I would know :oops:

Yep done that, and then quickly put the pin back in.


No one were any the wiser, ;)
 

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