Suppliers Fuse

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Here is one I have asked lecturers and sparks many times and never received a totally satisfactory answer. please give suggestions. When installing a new C/U, what is the best way to get around the Suppliers Fuse issue.
Answers I have received seem to fall into several categories.
A) Break seal, do job, and leave before anyone finds out. (Don't seem very professional or fair on customer, never mind illegal.)
B) Get a re-sealing tool, and no-one will ever know. (wouldn't even know where to get one.)
C) Arrange for REC to re-seal. (And wait around for four days until they come out?)
D) Work on it live (not a f***ing chance, thanks.)

I would appreciate any opinions as to what you guys normally do in this situation.
 
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You know the real answer...

You should get the REC to do it for you - Most rec's will come out and de-fuse and re-fuse for free - some charge.

BUT...

Many people will fit new CU by pulling the fuse, then send a cert to the REC (a REC cert) asking them to reseal and connect the new tail to the meter (the old tails, usually 16's, connected temporarily with henly blocks left 'floating', the rec will remove the henleys, and put your tails into the meter).

This way, you don't even see the REC, they arrange a time with the home owner - this is the method we use. We also use this method for TT to PME upgrades, with an RCD in place of the henleys - the REC will remove this and leave it on site for you to pick up (or if it was an old one that used to be installed onsite, you can leave it to be binned).

When there are modern henleys fixed to the wall, many sparks will connect to these with them live - This is also a good method if you are competent, and the tails are correctly sized, and do't need changing.
 
Lectrician said:
When there are medern henleys fixed to the wall, many sparks will connect to these with them live.
So will some competent DIY-ers, but they don't like it...
 
ban-all-sheds said:
So will some competent DIY-ers, but they don't like it...

Who don't like what :confused:

If there are henleys post meter, I see no problem with connecting to them if the tails are sized corectly. It's not something a DIY-er should undertake, and to be honest, my view is still(and always will), that DIY-ers shouldn't be allowed to play with the CU.

Before you say it, I know there are some very competent DIYers - but there are also some that think they are.
 
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As Lec says, what he does (and me too) is to cut the seal, fit the tails and leave a completion certificate with the client. They then ring the REC to make an appointment to reseal.

Officially, though, my local REC asks to be called out in the morning to break the seal, then return later in the day to power up.

The problem is, the chaps on the ground know that this is not convenient, for them or us, so that's why they prefer the first option.

The office have one procedure (the "proper" one), and the engineers have another.
 
As my REC can't be ars*d and their story seems to change from one day to the next, depending on who you get when you call, I always cut the seal, do the job, then re-seal using my own personal lead seals.
 
Thanks to all for advice. I think I was guilty of wording my original question incorrectly. But you have all wisely seen that what i was probably asking was more about the availability/ reliability of calling out the REC. Everyones comments have really helped. Thanks again guys.
 
dingbat said:
then re-seal using my own personal lead seals.


Tch, tch, Mr Bat. Round our way, the REC's have not used lead seals for 20 years or more!

And if they're your own personal seals, doesn't the Bat logo give the game away? :D
 
dingbat said:
then re-seal using my own personal lead seals.
Not that I want any - but can you point me in the direction of a supplier :?: Just in case someone asks me in the future ;)
 
The subject of C**ting S**ls has been mentioned so much in this forum, would it be illegal from next January onwards? - a very contentious topic...
 

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