supporting existing beam

[CuriousI]

The existing knock through in our house has a 2.8m wide opening into the existing extension. The one end of the beam is tied into one course of the party wall between us and the neighbour. This doesn't appear to be adequate for such a large span.

I would like to a add a blockwork column at this end of the beam. Is this possible given the beam is installed already? How do I get the new column to take up the weight of the beam and all that is supports?

 

[Alastairreid]

By knocking in packers ie slates.

 

[tony1851]

What is the problem with the bearing of the beam in the party wall?

 

[CuriousI]

I have spoken to my structural engineer again and he has recommended that we should still try do something. It might be fine as is however its not how he would design it if "doing a proper job".

Some ideas we discussed was packing in a "dry" sement mix under the beam or else trying to cast in a padstone insitu underneath the beam by creating shuttering at the top of the column and pouring in concrete.

Has anyone done this before? Think its doable?

 

[tony1851]

or else trying to cast in a padstone insitu underneath the beam by creating shuttering at the top of the column and pouring in concrete.

Complete waste of time - how can your pour concrete to form a padstone while the beam is in position and ensure that the concrete is properly compacted to gain sufficient strength?
If your SE is concerned about the compressive strength of the brickwork immediately below the beam, why not consider slipping a thick (10-12mm) steel plate, say 200mm long x 100 wide, under the beam end, to spread the load better?

 

[CuriousI]

I am dubious of the method myself.

Alternatively I could build a blockwork column under the beam and then pack a dry mix of concrete underneath the beam over the top of the column. Does that sound more reasonable?

 

[tony1851]

Alternatively I could build a blockwork column under the beam and then pack a dry mix of concrete underneath the beam over the top of the column. Does that sound more reasonable?

TBH, that seems pointless as well. Over time (a few weeks), the concrete blocks and mortar will shrink a little (only fractionally, mind) but it will result in the support coming away from under the beam and the beam load will still be in the party wall.
What exactly is it that you/your SE are concerned about??
Is your SE a young graduate or inexperienced? There's nothing inherently wrong with setting a beam into the party wall, without a pier, as long as there is a sufficient bearing, such as a padstone or steel plate, under the beam end to spread the load sufficiently.
Any pics??

 

[amwc]

There should be a calculation that comes with the calculation for the beam that shows that the bearing is adequate it is likely that the brick work is adequate. If not then as long as the load can spread down to the foundations it may just be a case of inserting a padstone under it. A pier is not as much a concern as the foundations under it i.e. if you build a 215mm pier it will only spread the load 215mm further along the foundation. Most beams are ok with 100mm bearing but it is fairly standard to have a 440mm concrete block under it.

 

[themiddleagedun]

You didn't mention any sign of a problem
If it ain't, broke don't fix it...

 

[NS215]

or else trying to cast in a padstone insitu underneath the beam by creating shuttering at the top of the column and pouring in concrete.

Complete waste of time - how can your pour concrete to form a padstone while the beam is in position and ensure that the concrete is properly compacted to gain sufficient strength?
If your SE is concerned about the compressive strength of the brickwork immediately below the beam, why not consider slipping a thick (10-12mm) steel plate, say 200mm long x 100 wide, under the beam end, to spread the load better?

Personally I prefer this method of casting in situ, when possible, just shutter the padstone, pour the concrete and then rattle the shuttering with a hammer drill, till the concrete stops settling, leave till next day and you've got yourself one hell of a good padstone at the perfect height , plus you've no need to pack above the steel with slate as you can put on a full bed of mortar, then wind up the steel with acrow props to the correct level, ensuring full support along the whole length of the beam

 

[ban-all-sheds]

You didn't mention any sign of a problem
If it ain't, broke don't fix it...

That was my first thought - how long has it been like this, and are there any signs of things going

 

[tony1851]

Personally I prefer this method of casting in situ, when possible, just shutter the padstone, pour the concrete

If you are casting a flush padstone in a flat wall, with the beam in position,
1. how do you get the concrete in without taking out more bricks above and 2. how do you ensure it goes tight up to the undersideof the steel?