suprima not responding on ch only hw

[croydoncorgi]

Can't imagine why it might be worthwhile getting a Synchron motor via ebay.
They're available from any half-decent plumbers merchant or boiler spares place for less than 15 quid.

 

[MANDATE]

Jim! No point in buying a motor for the valve until you're fairly sure that is the problem. Have you removed the Actuator head so you can see it operate without it being on the spindle ?. If you can confirm it moves to all three positions ( for the 3 modes ), then the motors OK. If and when it's in the CH only position, have you checked the voltage on the orange wire? No voltage when motor OK means micro switch problem and a new motor will not solve that.
I've seen motors at B & Q Warehouses for about £15.

 

[ollski]

Jim! No point in buying a motor for the valve until you're fairly sure that is the problem. Have you removed the Actuator head so you can see it operate without it being on the spindle ?. If you can confirm it moves to all three positions ( for the 3 modes ), then the motors OK. If and when it's in the CH only position, have you checked the voltage on the orange wire? No voltage when motor OK means micro switch problem and a new motor will not solve that.
I've seen motors at B & Q Warehouses for about £15.

Hmmm....I've done plenty of honeywell motors that work fine, but haven't quite got enough strength to pull against the spring far enough to make the microswitches, take the heads off though and the lack of resistance from the spindle lets the move freely across.

 

[lunaboy]

hey guys!!, first of all can i thank you for all your help, its appreciated.

I dont mean to sound stupid and i know i should get a plumber but im detirmined to fix this bugger myself!

So in lamens terms how do i check this valve thing. Its fixed to the copper pipes do i remove it then take the top off? you then say to check if it moves to all 3 positions, well the lever that i pulled seems to only have two (the one its stuck in , and the one when i pull it back and down into a groove) how do i check if the motor is knackered? Aswell , which position is the ch one? i obviously check the voltage of the orange wire next.

sorry to you guys if ive confused the situation but i need it all step by step
cheers alot jim

 

[lunaboy]

hey ollski, i here you knocking on that one but how do i check if the motor is weak or not . If the motor is not working how can i put it on ch mode to check the voltage of the orange wire?

jim..

 

[MANDATE]

Jim! On the one I dealt with the actuator head pulled away and off the spindle after removing two screws. Then I could turn it upside down and see the spindle locating hole ('D' shaped ). I tried HW only which removes power from the 'grey' wire and allows the motor to return to the start position using the spring. I then tried HW combined with CH. The room stat now provides power to the white wire and after a little delay time it drives the motor forward, which I could see easily. It moved about 45 degrees. It's one of the microswitches that cuts off the power and replaces it with reduced power. The force now at this point is strong enough to hold the motor against the spring, but not enough to drive the motor further. I then tried CH only which allows power to the grey wire and drives the motor another 45 degrees. So the motor proved OK, but with HW off the microswitch should have provided the power on the orange wire but it didn't.
In your case you don't know which bit is faulty. with CH only I assume you have no power at the orange wire, but is that due to a faulty microswitch or is it because the motor is not reaching the CH position. This is why you need to firstly watch the motor in operation. When you remove the head make sure the spindle is free to turn, a stiff or stuck spindle would give the same problem.

 

[lunaboy]

cheers for your patience mandate, i will try that and post a note later in the week to let ya know. Cheers............jim