Table Saw or Bandsaw?

[chrisray]

I have some lengths to be cut, approx 3m and quite a few to be done. I would usually use my local timber yards machiners to do it. Though I'm using my carpentry skills more often these days so I thought it best to start learning what the tools are generally used for.

Which one should I buy; a table saw or a bandsaw ? What are the general purposes for each tool? I've noticed the bandsaw seems to take up less space and might be less accurate at cut at angles.. apart from that I'm stuck.

 

[Scrit]

Which one should I buy; a table saw or a bandsaw ? What are the general purposes for each tool? I've noticed the bandsaw seems to take up less space and might be less accurate at cut at angles.. apart from that I'm stuck.

Small bandsaws are really only useful for cutting contours (curves) - even the big ones will not cut dead to a line (I know, our workshop possesses a 28in bandsaw, about 9 1/2 feet high, and even that won't cut all that straight against the panel saw) - the problem is that small rable saws aren't that accurate either. To cutt 3 metres requires a 6 metre long "shed" to work in and you'll need infeed rollers and at least a 1.5metre long outfeed table on the rear of a table saw to do the cut safely. In practical terms for materials up to 1in thick a portable circular saw with a straight edge (e.g. batten, rail system, etc) is actually safer and as accurate. What is it that you need to cut, plywood or solid materials? And do you need 3 metres for each pass?

Scrit

 

[big-all]

i am with scrit on this one


you dont actualy say what size the material is [not that that would make much difference to the advice]

but if it was for example 2x1" timber you cannot [easily ] cut it with a circular saw

what other uses do you have planed for the machine
then perhaps we can suggest the best machine for the job

 

[chrisray]

Sorry I didn't mention what material I'm cutting. It's a frame for a wardrobe. And I think its's pine, definitly a softwood. But I know their are different variations of softwood so can't exactly specify other than pine.

It's approx 95 x 45 mm and at 3m long I don't want to try and cut with a handsaw or a jigsaw. So was tempted into buying a tablesaw, which was looking about the best alternative. Until now.

I've seen the circular saws, though how would I cut timber this long? I'm working in a garage with a workbench approximately 2.5m long.

I'm planning on building a fitted wardrobe in a awkward space near a window. Thats it for now, maybe some more fitted cupboards in the garage.

Thanks scrit and big-all.

 

[Scrit]

I've seen the circular saws, though how would I cut timber this long? I'm working in a garage with a workbench approximately 2.5m long.

You could always open the door and pick a dry day! (I used to do that) Make sure that you have an outfeed table to support material as it exits the saw and support the infeed side as well.

Scrit

 

[chrisray]

Is the table saw my best bet? Where do I get infeeds/outfeeds from?

 

[chrisray]

any good?

http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?id=50917&ts=54499#

For a buget table saw.

Or

http://www.machinemart.co.uk/product.asp?p=060610751&r=2124&g=116

Or I've just seen the Ryobi 1525 10" Table saw looks pretty good.

 

[Scrit]

OK, providing you can work with the door open for longer pieces, and you can make-up your own feed supports (see below) then a table saw does indeed sound like it is your best bet. Crikey, those you picked are cheap! (Oops, inexpensive ) Amazing! Sorry I can't make any recommendations on either of them, but hopefully someone here or at UK Workshop (a woodworking forum) would be able to advise you better - there are a number of Rexon owners over there and at least one Clark owner. The only thing I would say about low cost saws is that the rip fences generally aren't wonderfully accurate and that they can sometimes flex a bit - so you'll probably need a 6in (or better, bigger i.e. 9 or 12in) joiner's square to check that the fence is square to the table before making any cuts, and that it might prove necessary to make the fence more rigid by clamping a block of wood to the table at the rear edge of the rip fence to stop it from flexing.

Infeed and outfeed supports are just to make sure that your material doesn't droop as it goes over the saw which can result in a painful condition called kickback. For temporary supports on site I've been known to use a Workmate with some 3 x 2 PAR offcuts and an old worktop offcut nailed to the top, an old flush door supported on breeze blocks (a bit unstable that) and even a heavy cardboard boxes cut down to the right heightYou can literally nail a couple of supports together from scrap, old worktop, whatever - so long as they support the material at the same height as the top of the saw bench - which should be on legs. Avoid the temptation to work at floor level to save money on a set of legs and learn to work with a push stick (on order to keep your fingers away from the blade).

Want to learn about safe saw usage there's this site - allright a bit officious in places, but the advice is good. Take note of the positioning of the rip fence relative to the blade.

Scrit

 

[chrisray]

Thanks Scrit for the helpful links and advice on making supports

Safe working guides are always welcome!

Chris