Taking 9cm off an oak veneer door?

[NHW]

Guessing this isn't possible as it seems like way too much to take off either the top or bottom of the door?

Missus wants to match all the doors in the house (LPD Carini), and we have a door which is like a 1½ sized door (widthwise) due to the house previously being altered for a wheelchair user.

Link to the door

So I managed to find the exact door which they make in 926mm width but for this width it only comes in 2040mm height whereas the height for that architrave is 1950mm so I'd need to cut the door down by at least 90mm.

Would even taking 45mm off top and the bottom be too much?

Thank you for any advice given

 

[Notch7]

It’s a solid core door with 20mm lipping…so chopping off 45mm would lose the lipping but still be in solid material.

If it was me I’d treat the cut door edge with something like varnish or watered down glued to bond the loose chipboard bits together and give the edges a nice round with a bit of sandpaper.

 

[NHW]

It’s a solid core door with 20mm lipping…so chopping off 45mm would lose the lipping but still be in solid material.

If it was me I’d treat the cut door edge with something like varnish or watered down glued to bond the loose chipboard bits together and give the edges a nice round with a bit of sandpaper.

Ahhhhh so it is possible. Thank you very much for descriptive advice. I already have a big tub of Danish oil, do you think a couple layers of that would be good?

So if I'll be chopping past the lipping anyways. Shall I just take 90mm off either the top or bottom (if so which side is best to take off) instead of 45mm off both sides.

Thanks again

 

[johnny2007]

Or, close the opening to standard size and get a new frame and door.

 

[NHW]

Or, close the opening to standard size and get a new frame and door.

I think that in theory this would cost at least 3x as much because the difference in price between the door sizes is only £5-10 here n there.

I would still have to get door trimmed regardless because the sizes they have wouldn't be the same size as the frame, maybe widthwise but not heightwise. So I'd still have to oversize the door and get it trimmed at either top or bottom.

But I'd then have to pay to somehow close the opening and put in a new frame. Which would probably take alot more time since I'd have to pay someone to do it and way more in terms of cost

 

[johnny2007]

I think that in theory this would cost at least 3x as much because the difference in price between the door sizes is only £5-10 here n there.

I would still have to get door trimmed regardless because the sizes they have wouldn't be the same size as the frame, maybe widthwise but not heightwise. So I'd still have to oversize the door and get it trimmed at either top or bottom.

But I'd then have to pay to somehow close the opening and put in a new frame. Which would probably take alot more time since I'd have to pay someone to do it and way more in terms of cost

I thought you were diying it.

 

[pod32]

What I would do first before sawing the top of the door mask it so that you get a clean cut. Then sand the top of the door. Then buy two part resin to seal the top of the door then when it’s tacky take the masking tape of.

 

[robinbanks]

Honestly, I think it'd be easier and less risky to close the hole up by planting 38mm timber both sides on the existing architrave (I mean on the face, and paint it, not taking the arc off and adding to the back) and fitting an 838 door. You appear to have a planer/saw so you could easily make the necessary closer out of standard sized timbers from any DIY shed; CLS is already 38mm

The 2040 doors are also 5mm thicker, and the line spacing won't match the other doors if you cut the top and bottom but if you do choose to go for it I recommend to use a straight edge and new Stanley knife to score through the veneer first, then set your circ saw so it's cutting a depth of 3mm and cut that line a millimetre away from the score, then cut 20 mm, flip the door and repeat. This should minimise risk of ragging the veneer. If your saw blade is old and knackered renew it

Lastly be careful what you treat your cut ends with. Manufacturers frequently advise against treating veneered doors with oil because of the risk of the oil damaging the glue and delaminating the veneer. You might want to buy spray lacquer instead, then you're treating with the same stuff they prefinish with