Taking half an inch off door

Which begs the question, " How many DIYers have a decent 1/2in router?". Whereas quite a few people seem to have a power planer - albeit a domestic model which can only take 2mm per pass as opposed to 4mm per pass of an industrial one.

Fair point but you can get a decent for DIY 1/2" router for well under a £100. Both my brother and myself as DIY'ers have decent for DIY 1/2" routers.

Another point about router cutters that you didn't make - it is normally regarded as unsafe practice to take a cut with a router of more than 1/2 the diameter of the router cutter - so with a 1/2in diameter bit you shouldn't be taking more than 1/4in per pass because of the increased risk of experiencing a climb cut

I was under the impression that a climb cut was down to the direction of feed, nothing to do with the depth of cut. Limiting the depth of cut is to do with stressing the bearings on the router, on small diameter cutters the risk of snapping, and it does depend on the material you are going through. So oak requires shallower passes than pine, though if you are not doing a "cut" a full depth pass is definitely acceptable.


So the twaddle (to use your own verbiage) that you are trying to peddle is that the vast majority of trade joiners, who don't use routers for this sort of task, are complete numpties who don't know what they are doing?

A trade joiner is interested in making a good enough job in the quickest time. They are almost never interested in making the best possible job regardless. The OP asked what to use to get and I quote "the best finish", which I maintain will be achieved using a router.

Also for a DIY'er using a router has a far lower skill set requirement than planers, or saws and batterns, with far lower probability of a cock up being made.

I do almost all my own DIY because the job I do is almost invariably "better" than a professional. I might take longer but the quality of the finish is better than any trades person I have ever personally seen because I can spend the time without cost becoming an issue.

As for doors, over the years I have used all the methods described in this thread, but would reach for the router every time now.
 
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Circular saw (where available) every time for me. Decent blade and a rub with sandpaper and the finish will be just as good as with a router.
I use a guide rail saw but if you don't have access to one a batten to guide a standard circular saw with either some tape on the cut line or a score on the cut line with a stanley knife will prevent breakout.

I would use this method every time I had 1/2" to cut off a door. Router also gives a good finish but more potential for error unless you are competent....tip router a degree or two during the pass and you have a problem.

P.S Don't agree really with the comments about trade joiners making just a good enough job in the quickest time. Quality of finished job is paramount to me and is the reason I get repeat work. Some other joiners may differ I know.
 
This chunk of cherry is cut with a festool rail saw on one side and a router with a new bit on the other.
Difficult to see on the image but the saw side is super smooth compared to the router side.


endgrainrouter.png


endgrain2new.png
 
They are good saws aren't they Norcon :D , I own a TS55 and would replace it tomorrow if I lost it. I don't buy 100% into the Festool hype but some of their products really are superb....especially the plunge saws.
 
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P.S Don't agree really with the comments about trade joiners making just a good enough job in the quickest time. Quality of finished job is paramount to me and is the reason I get repeat work. Some other joiners may differ I know.

So every job you do is the absolute best you could possibly do? At no time do you ever do something that is perfectly good enough but would take less time and hence be cheaper than doing the best possible?

I note that I have been criticized in this very forum for using a finger jointer and router table to join lengths of skirting together prior to putting on the wall as making work for myself. Gives the best possible finish takes much longer as you have to leave the glued length to dry overnight in the room. I would be surprised if even 1% of joiners followed by method.
 
This chunk of cherry is cut with a festool rail saw on one side and a router with a new bit on the other.
Difficult to see on the image but the saw side is super smooth compared to the router side.

Well I admit to never having cut cherry but I have never seen that with a new bit on oak, ash, beech, sycamore, softwood, MDF, chipboard or plywood. An blunt, old or damaged bit yes, but never a new bit.

If I ever need to cut cherry then I know to use an up/down bit :)
 
P.S Don't agree really with the comments about trade joiners making just a good enough job in the quickest time. Quality of finished job is paramount to me and is the reason I get repeat work. Some other joiners may differ I know.

So every job you do is the absolute best you could possibly do? At no time do you ever do something that is perfectly good enough but would take less time and hence be cheaper than doing the best possible?

Yes every job is the best I can possibly do, working within the constraints I am given.

You said...... 'A trade joiner is interested in making a good enough job in the quickest time. They are almost never interested in making the best possible job regardless'.
This is a blanket statement, I can assure you there are a lot of joiners/carpenters out there who are interested in producing the best possible job.....when they are asked to do so.
A lot of my work is traditional joinery such as sliding sash windows, staircases, doors and so on and a lot of people have the mindset that they want highest quality work (possibly like yourself), and are willing to pay for it. Same goes for fitting an expensive German kitchen or any number of carpentry jobs, some people want high quality and will pay to attain it.

I understand what you are getting at to a point but it certainly doesn't apply to everyone.
 

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