Taking a uniform amount off a door edge

[Arjay12345]

Hi

I need to to trim the width of a door by ~5mm. What's the best way to ensure I get this exact?

I normally use a planer but always geta dug-out at the end of a run where the planer drops off. I do belt sand to make level off, but it's always risky in case things go wrong.

Would routing be more guaranteed? Any other tricks?

Thanks..

 

[Richard C]

For trimming that much off, I use a circular saw & run it against a clamped batten. I use my spirit level for door widths but length of the door will need a decent, straight lump of timber or I’ve used another door or a sheet of ply, anything as long as it’s straight but I finish off with a manual plane; saw fences never seem to work particularly well especially over that distance.

 

[gregers]

defo a planer,why not work the problem from both ends,make sure you only take off a small bit at a time,then use a hand plane to finish it off.

 

[big-all]

you only get dip because you arnt holding the plane properly
start off stroke weight to the front end off stroke weight to the back

working to the centre is a good solution but you will still get a central hollow that will get worse with each pass if you dont tranfer to the heal

 

[foxhole]

You only get a hollow when you run off the end, you always work to the middle , 5mm is just three passes with a power plane, simple.Run a pencil line down each side at 5mm to guide you and prevent cutting at an angle.

 

[big-all]

You only get a hollow when you run off the end, you always work to the middle , 5mm is just three passes with a power plane, simple.Run a pencil line down each side at 5mm to guide you and prevent cutting at an angle.

you take say 2mm off till the center when you come in from the other side when the nose reaches the center it will drop 2 mm creating a dip
then when you come from the opposite direction the nose will find that dip and so on

 

[Arjay12345]

Thanks all.

I do normally transfer weight to the heal at the end of a run, but again, it's not an exact science. Same with working through to the centre.

Plus I've hit knots sometimes, which total screws up the whole process.

I just thought that there must be some quicker and more accurate way that trade folk use (I have 14 doors to tailor in all)

The circular saw method sounds the best to me. Thanks Richard.

Any recommendations for lightweight (less cumbersome than my full size) circ saw? Ideally something I can cut into nailed floorboards too.

Thanks
Arjay..

 

[big-all]

score along the cut line with a stanley knife to minimize chipping or splintering

 

[WestmidsChippy]

FOOK ME!

the tool you are after is a plane, either electrical or manual one.

fookin circular saw for 5mm, you are talking out of your arse!

 

[cajar]

How about clamping a bit of stock wood to the end of the door so the plane drops off on that?

 

[27neth]

Easiest way is a plunge saw... If not a electric plane or a hand plane.

John

 

[Richard C]

 

[big-all]

less than 3mm with a circular saw can be a problem because the blade can be deflected because it can skip off the edge as there isn't enough to cut into and the blade side swipes the edge

i dont see a problem with 5mm myself as saw blades are between 1/16th and 1/8th or 1.6 and 3.2mm ish

yes i know they come thinner[1.2mm ] and thicker but no overly relivent

now from a door fitting point off view cutting the edge off a door 9 times out off 10 would not be accurate enough because the leg would have to be 100% straight [give or take 0.25mm] so a planer will give you the accurate profile as you match the frame

 

[foxhole]

FOOK ME!

the tool you are after is a plane, either electrical or manual one.

fookin circular saw for 5mm, you are talking out of your a**e!

I agree, but I don't have your way with words.

 

[nickdsjnk]

I use a festool plunge saw for taking straight runs off. It's quicker and straighter than a planer. When the frame is bowed or twisted the planer is obviously the superior tool. The festool is obviously an expensive tool for a job which can be done with a hand or powered planer bu if you have access to one anyway I would say it is the best tool for the job.

The festool has no trouble taking fractions of a mm off, in this sense it is far superior to a jig saw or a a fixed circular saw.