tanking and other Qs

[poshman]

hi helpers, I am planning to re tile my shower cubicle and tile my plain brick/plastered walls in shower room

when i take off the tiles in cubicle will i need to re tank the walls ( if they were done in the first place ) and will i need to tank the plain walls which have been emulsioned with bathroom paint ? thanks P M

is this the best order to do ?

1. take out newish toilet and basin/ rad

2 remove shower tray

3 remove tiles in cubicle

4 remove floor tiles/ skirting board

5 install new shower tray

6 tile cubicle walls ( so family can use )

7 tile plain walls

8 tile floor

9 re install toilet/basin/rad

would it be best to tile down to the floor and leave skirting off ?
Thanks once again!!

 

[Richard C]

I am planning to re tile my shower cubicle and tile my plain brick/plastered walls in shower room when i take off the tiles in cubicle will i need to re tank the walls

If they are brick & plaster, it’s unlikely they would have been tanked & unless your building a wet room it’s not really necessary to tank but you can if you wish.

Are you sure your shower cubicle walls are brick not plaster board studs?

and will i need to tank the plain walls which have been emulsioned with bathroom paint ?

Again not usually unless you want to. Do you know what bathroom paint it is; additional prep may be required?

is this the best order to do ?
1. take out newish toilet and basin/ rad
2 remove shower tray
3 remove tiles in cubicle
4 remove floor tiles/ skirting board
5 install new shower tray
6 tile cubicle walls ( so family can use )
7 tile plain walls
8 tile floor
9 re install toilet/basin/rad

Order of work is as good as any I suppose; fit service valves on all the water supplies if not there already, it makes removal & refitting a very quick & easy without the need to keep turning the water off. What sort of floor is it concrete or suspended timber? & what type of timber?

You may not get the tiles up without destroying a timber floor; likewise you may not get the tiles off the walls without damaging the existing plaster/render & then you’ll need remedial work but post back at that point. You also need to check out the floor to make sure it’s really suitable for tiling; lots of info on suitable flooring materials in the archive posts or, again, post backs for advice on what to do.

would it be best to tile down to the floor and leave skirting off ?

IMO yes; I don’t think skirting looks right with tiled floors & walls.

 

[poshman]

Thanks for reply.. I think no 1 should read " pay a tiler to do it "
anyway

yeh not sure if cubicle walls are brick so may tank

cant remember what paint it is so might just scrape/score the walls

the floor are timber squares, same as the bathroom which i tiled couple ofyears ago using good adesive after advise from here and havent had any problems

 

[Richard C]

I think no 1 should read " pay a tiler to do it "

It sounds daunting but it’s not rocket science, if you research it properly, take your time & use quality materials it’s not beyond someone with a bit of DIY experience. Some who call themselves tillers are not actually very good at doing things correctly either.

yeh not sure if cubicle walls are brick so may tank

Rap your knuckles on it, if it sounds hallow it’s stud.

cant remember what paint it is so might just scrape/score the walls

You may also need to use a bonding primer but do not use PVA.

the floor are timber squares, same as the bathroom which i tiled couple of years ago using good adesive after advise from here and havent had any problems

Not sure what you mean by “timber squares”, not chipboard is it?

 

[poshman]

Richard C, its hard to motivate myself re projects esp now ive passed 60 !
but ive done most things over the years apart from roofing !

I think its chipboard, its soft but like I said I tiled bathroom floor with same flooring using flexible adhesive

ok ill use the bonding as a precaution

thanks once again

 

[Richard C]

its hard to motivate myself re projects esp now ive passed 60 !

I fully understand what you mean

I think its chipboard, its soft but like I said I tiled bathroom floor with same flooring using flexible adhesive

The most important thing is that the floor is rigid, even quality trade products will fail if movement is outside that which it can accommodate. Personally, I would never tile over chipboard, its crap; I usually prefer to replace the floor with 18-25mm WBP ply depending on size/pitch/span of floor joists. This ensures it’s rigid without the need for over boarding & keeps the door threshold at a reasonable level.

ok ill use the bonding as a precaution

http://www.bal-adhesives.co.uk/products/bond-sbr
or something similar.

 

[poshman]

well i am done up to number 7 with the help from the forum
now for the floor, I am not looking forward to it really worried tiles may crack not getting it level etc anyway.. as ive said floor is chipboard so I will screw down then put 6mm hardibaker on top use spf and hey presto wish me good luck