Taps?

  • Thread starter attractivebrunette
  • Start date
A

attractivebrunette

I've bought some new taps. The hose that I screw into them ends like this:


However, the water pipes I have in my kitchen, look like this:


First of all, the hose from the tap isn't long enough to reach the end of the hose joined to the copper water supplies. So I'll need somehow to 'join' them together.

So what do I need to join them? Can I remove the old felixible hose attached to my copper pipe water supply, and replace it with a flexible hose long enough to reach the flexible hose attached to my tap?

If anyone can post links to what I need or pictures with the name of what I need, that would be most helpful. I've spent hours in B&Q buying things only to find out they're the wrong things.
 
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Unscrew that nut from the isolator valve in the bottom right hand picture. Do the same on the other flex already there.

Then you will need 1 pack of these, (i.e. two of them) which you remove the 4 nuts and the 4 olives (little ring bits inside them) from and throw away the middle screwy bits, one of these (just one length) and one of these You will also need two adjustable spanners.

B&Q do them all, in the plumbing section and the tool section :LOL: :LOL: :LOL: . Cut the copper pipe to a suitable length and fit to the isolator valves on the existing flexis using olives and nuts, then the other end of the pipes to the new tap's flexis using the remaining olives and nuts.
 
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Brilliantly explained dextrous and I now know how to actually connect them together.

However, my problem is that if I do all that, the tap flexi pipes won't reach the water supply pipes. I need some sort of 'extension'. Or a really long flexi pipe. But I can't seem to find one longer than 300mm anywhere. Any ideas?
 
the cheap flexi I pointed you at is the right one to connect to the flexi on the tap. then you extend the copper as dex said..

use an isolation valve instead of the straight coupler and add however much copper you need to make it reach..

View media item 13142
 
the cheap flexi I pointed you at is the right one to connect to the flexi on the tap. then you extend the copper as dex said..

use an isolation valve instead of the straight coupler and add however much copper you need to make it reach..

View media item 13142
How do you do those drawings :confused:

Anyway, very nearly right - where you have written "old copper", it should read "old flexi", and "new flexi" replaced by "tap flexi"

We are extending the length by inserting a bit of copper between the old and new flexis.
 
ms paint.. it's just blocks of colour...

the digital equivalent of scisors, pritstick and crepe paper from primary school...

and not my way we're not ;) , we're extending the hard copper as my flexi's screw straight onto the new tap flexi's.. the old flexi's won't screw onto the tap connectors as they are 3/4 threaded and the old ones are compression fit to copper..
 
ms paint.. it's just blocks of colour...

the digital equivalent of scisors, pritstick and crepe paper from primary school...
and though the round window today.....
and not my way we're not ;) , we're extending the hard copper as my flexi's screw straight onto the new tap flexi's..
not really a great idea since the tap's flexis have a chamfer for a compressed olive, and the op will be in danger of overtightening the rubber washer in your flexi and cutting through it. Also, your picture, so beautifully drawn, has an isolator on the old copper pie that isn't there. (bottom left photo)
the old flexi's won't screw onto the tap connectors as they are 3/4 threaded and the old ones are compression fit to copper..
Disagree - that's a bit of 15mm pipe (with the remnants of a hep pushfit - bottom right photo)) coming out a 1/2" isolator valve on that flexi.

You know I'm right - just swallow your pride and apologise ;) :LOL: :LOL: :LOL:
 
always partial to the arched window myself.

the new tap end is a 3/4 BSP taper thread..

the pushfit remnant is off the old tap, the isolation valve is built into the old flexi so a new one on the pipes or a new flexi with built in ( my second link ) is needed.
the old flexi end with the isolation valve is compression fit to the small piece of copper that was connected to the tap by pushfit by the looks..

I appologise wholeheartedly for being absent minded whilst creating the drawing, and missing the word "NEW" off the "ISOLATION VALVE"... ;)
 
the old flexi's won't screw onto the tap connectors as they are 3/4 threaded and the old ones are compression fit to copper..
Disagree - that's a bit of 15mm pipe (with the remnants of a hep pushfit - bottom right photo)) coming out a 1/2" isolator valve on that flexi.

You know I'm right - just swallow your pride and apologise ;) :LOL: :LOL: :LOL:

if you want to be pedantic...

View media item 13150
I'm right..
 
bout time the plumbers had a ruck, this has got 5 pages in it at least :D
 
the old flexi's won't screw onto the tap connectors as they are 3/4 threaded and the old ones are compression fit to copper..
Disagree - that's a bit of 15mm pipe (with the remnants of a hep pushfit - bottom right photo)) coming out a 1/2" isolator valve on that flexi.

You know I'm right - just swallow your pride and apologise ;) :LOL: :LOL: :LOL:

if you want to be pedantic...

View media item 13150
I'm right..
You're f***ing not :LOL: :LOL: :LOL:
That flexi goes to the old copper pipe in the bottom left photo., so there's no need for a new flexi. Just put a bit of 15mm copper between the tap flexi and the old flexi and compress them on. No need to get a new flexi and isolator valves, so my way's cheaper!

The 3/4" you're referring to on the top left photo is for a 15mm compression, like this:

Now p**s off ;) :LOL: :LOL: :LOL: :LOL: :LOL:
 

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