I thought the Taunus was the German equivalent of the Mk3/4/5 Cortina?
Taunus engine
- Thread starter johnad
- Start date
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I'd give the engine a compression test to start with and use 20W/50 oil as that's what it was designed for years ago. Anything thinner will leak out like water. I don't recognise the thermostat housing as being a Kent pre-crossflow engine .
Yes, it is different. I'm assuming the engine has been 'marinised' for boat use and of course, with no radiator there will be no need for a thermostat.
I found a pipe in the bottom of the engine bay that fits between the little box on the side of the block and the side of the air intake on top of the carb.
There are some numbers on the top of the head (7E10)
And (T9) on the side of the block by the distributor
I defiantly think it's a carb/fuel problem as when it is going it runs really smooth
There are some numbers on the top of the head (7E10)
And (T9) on the side of the block by the distributor
I defiantly think it's a carb/fuel problem as when it is going it runs really smooth
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There was a 1964 Ford Taunus on EBay and it was totally different from the Mk1 Cortina, I assume all German Fords were called Taunus. It was the Mk3 Cortina onwards when they became similar.
Do marine engines circulate seawater for cooling? I assumed they'd have radiators or a heat exchanger.
Do marine engines circulate seawater for cooling? I assumed they'd have radiators or a heat exchanger.
There's a few variations in cooling marinised engines.....some pump water around a heat exchanger and kick it out the back, some are keel cooled where there is a tank on the keel that acts as a radiator.
Anything to keep salt water at bay!
John
Anything to keep salt water at bay!
John
I think these are just casting numbers, rather than any positive identification.
Just as a future plan I think I'd like to lose that copper fuel pipe that is clipped to the rocker box - there's a chance of fracture there as well as fuel vaporisation.
Regarding the running of the engine.....is the air filter clean? With the cleaner off, check the choke flap is fully open. With the engine warm, unscrewing the pilot mixture screw from it's 1 1/4 turn default should cause the engine to run rich - maybe pushing some black smoke out. Turning the screw in will temporarily increase the engine speed but then cause it to stall.
A carb clean can only be a good thing though!
John
A lad on a motorbike once flagged me down in my old Cortina to tell me,because of the amount of smoke, that my engine was on fire!That's just a breather pipe from crankcase to air cleaner - it might alter the mixture by letting in more air when not there. ( on my Mk 1 cortina it used to emit smoke like mad - it was open to air and hung down)
It didn't take many miles for a Ford engine of that era to start blowing out oil fumes! Other makers didn't have the same problem, were they piping the fumes back into the inlet manifold? I don't remember the arrangement on my 1959 Austin Cambridge!
Thanks to everyone for all the helpful information, the engine is raw water cooled I know this is not the best thing but maybe later I will change this or maybe even swap the engine but all the time I can keep it running I will live with it
As for the copper fuel pipe should I change this for a normal rubber fuel line ? And should I just leave it hanging or clip it in the same place as the copper one ?
I really don't think it has anything wrong with the engine itself as when I get it started it sounds and runs sweet as a nut so it's going to get a oil change new filter new fuel filter, plugs etc.
the boat start leaver just pulls open the throttle leaver a little to keep the revs up when it's cold but it revs like mad even when I push the leaver back to normal position then it dies ,
I have done this with the air filter off and the choke flap fully open and it still revs like mad and dies
If the choke flap is open and it's running on high revs my thoughts are it's getting to much fuel ? And dies because it's emptying the float chamber ? (Or I could be completely wrong)
As suggested I think I'm going to strip it down and rebuild the carb I have found a good video on utube with the exact carb that I have so I'm sure I could tackle it, I just need to find the rebuild kit and all I can find online is from the USA can anyone tell me where in the U.K. I can order a kit from ?
As a matter of interest the crankcase breather pipe emits a very very small puf of smoke and I mean small but this is directed at the air filter and is sucked back into the engine and the exhaust (that pumps out with the water trough the outdrive leg) so far shows no sign of smoke
As for the copper fuel pipe should I change this for a normal rubber fuel line ? And should I just leave it hanging or clip it in the same place as the copper one ?
I really don't think it has anything wrong with the engine itself as when I get it started it sounds and runs sweet as a nut so it's going to get a oil change new filter new fuel filter, plugs etc.
the boat start leaver just pulls open the throttle leaver a little to keep the revs up when it's cold but it revs like mad even when I push the leaver back to normal position then it dies ,
I have done this with the air filter off and the choke flap fully open and it still revs like mad and dies
If the choke flap is open and it's running on high revs my thoughts are it's getting to much fuel ? And dies because it's emptying the float chamber ? (Or I could be completely wrong)
As suggested I think I'm going to strip it down and rebuild the carb I have found a good video on utube with the exact carb that I have so I'm sure I could tackle it, I just need to find the rebuild kit and all I can find online is from the USA can anyone tell me where in the U.K. I can order a kit from ?
As a matter of interest the crankcase breather pipe emits a very very small puf of smoke and I mean small but this is directed at the air filter and is sucked back into the engine and the exhaust (that pumps out with the water trough the outdrive leg) so far shows no sign of smoke
I'd remove the fuel line from the engine, as it'll get a bit hot there and replace the odd last foot or so with some genuine fuel pipe .....this will allow for some movement and vibration.
I suspect your engine is ingesting air somewhere ( maybe due to that missing breather) which is upsetting the carburation.
As for the carb, all you'll really need are some gaskets and you may even get away without them.....there's nothing particularly to wear out inside.
Do keep us informed - an interesting project!
John
I suspect your engine is ingesting air somewhere ( maybe due to that missing breather) which is upsetting the carburation.
As for the carb, all you'll really need are some gaskets and you may even get away without them.....there's nothing particularly to wear out inside.
Do keep us informed - an interesting project!
John
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