Texecom Premier Install Questions

27 Dec 2018
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United Kingdom
Morning All, Firstly I'm an amateur installer but this is the second Premier 48 I've installed as the last one didn't give a single flase alarm or hickup in 11 years

So the new one (Prem 48), we have 8 wired zones to panel, ~12 Ricochet devices, 2 Wired keypads with another 2 zones used on each for impaqs with contacts, 32XPW wireless expander and a smart com wifi/ethernet.

It's pretty much wired up now, just the following I'm either not reading correctly (Going into my brain and out my ears) or haven't solved.

1, Wired 360 Dual tech in garage (large double garge mounted in centre), this seemed the most appropriate sensor for the job from what I read, protecting 1 window, 2 garage doors and a side door). I bought the anti masking version as it was cheaper where I bought it but don't want the anti masking enabled which jumpers do I set to disable it and once disabled i assume I just use normal EOL wiring terminals and ignore the fault output?

2, Bell box, alarm won't be commissioned for about 2 weeks as we're waiting on new front door being installed, can I connect the bell box now and will it hold off for 2 weeks or should I leave it until we're ready for the switch on?

3, I set the alarm up using the keypad last time and it was easy but time consuming, I want to go straight to wintex setup this time, what steps do I need to go through on commissioning to get wintex working via the smartcom straight away? (Can I do the ricochet setups in wintex too?)

4, Ricochet monitor, I assume I just plug onto the COM port in the 32XP-W module?

5, Ricochet zones, I've setup the mounting points for where they are going, I assume I just learn them close to the panel as per manual then go and screw them where their final resting place will be starting with the nearest item first?

6, We're planning on an extension next year so will need to change 2 zones wiring around, what's the correct procedure for doing this with my setup? Would the following be correct, login as engineer, switch off mains, pull the battery backup and commence work or will the bell box go into alarm mode? In the 11 years with my old one I never once had to switch it off.
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1. Just program up the wiring type is TEOL.
if you don't want the antimask on, then wire from 0V to the SET terminal, turn the disable antimask when set switch to on.

2. if the panel is powered up with a keypad then you can do it now, if panel not powered up no point as turning the battery for the bell on wont last that long (see manual statement about it).

3. its in the manual, you will need to program the smart com on and you will need to either connect via wifi again in the manual, or ethernet. If you have a BT smart hub 6 or similar disable the smart function.

Ricochet is learned via the keypad, you can use the wintex keypad.

4. Modern panel ie elite version 2 or above with a version 2 expander will be able to access ricochet monitor via wintex.

5. In my opinion it makes naff all difference, learn them on put them on close it up, all devices in put panel in commissioning mode. When complete in Ricochet monitor disable commissioning mode.

6.the internal tamper alarm will activate if you open a device connected to the panel, unless its programmed to bell in tamper which at default it isn't. Unless its in engineering mode, in which case the tamper wont go off unless its still presentwhen you exit engineering.
Hi, Thanks for the reply.
1, Triple EOL, does the 48 Panel support this, I assume it's in the setups once I'm in wintex? So does wiring 0V to Set just mean Anti masking won't ever cause an issue as it's effectively always ready to be set?
To do the TEOL, which terminals do I use, there's a jumper in there to set it to TEOL mode but it's confusing me a little what I connect to on the detector.

2, Makes sense, will leave it till it's ready to turn on.

3, No problem, will setup the smartcom first, I'm using sky Q hub and wifi. Is it the smartcom manual I want to follow or the 48 Panel manual to get them to talk to each other?

4, I've got a V4.01 panel and a V3 (I think 32XPW), also have a cable anyway as a backup option.

5, No problem, easy enough.

6, I want to switch the alarm off ideally as I'll be taking the 12v and 0v out the detectors to extend cables and move across the room, don't want to create any shorts/damage anything. Or should I just take extra care?
1. Power and TEOL terminals is your only option?
Yes the OV to the SET is basically to mimic a set condition, normally an output from the panel would be programmed as armed and then the output would only fire when the system is set and turning the antimasking feature off on that condition.

3. Smart Com, not sure if its in the panel manual.

4. Exact versions for your expander will determine compatibility ie version 3.1.x and above required for a wireless keypad to work, a 3.06 I think was the version previous and that wouldn't work with the wireless keypad.
This will however definitely allow ricochet monitor to work via wintex which was what you wanted to know.

6. Open the panel disconnect the 12V at the panel end for the detectors and once wired up you can reconnect at the panel. That's the best way for the antimasking detectors to learn there environment once powered up keep area clear for 5 minutes.

To be honest I only flip the glass fuses out on panels with them for a particular circuit so that if I do short them I don't need to replace the fuse, and then put it back when done, without having the panel infront of me don't think there are many if any circuits now on the premier elite with glass fuses. (blonde moment in the party mode).
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Awesome, thanks for the advice!

1 Last question, Conflicting advice I'm reading about the Dual Tech PIRs. Can I point them at a window that's 4.5m away? It gives me the best room coverage as the window spreads nearly the width of the room, the alternative is to place above the window but this won't cover a window below the PIR then
No PIR should be in direct sunlight (see manuals, its very clear including radiators and drafts), that said you are more likely to get away with it if the window is not south facing.

microwave component can be adjusted and should be adjusted to detect inside the walls rather than outside them, again this should be covered in the manual for the device.
Yes, I've seen all the X locations, it's a window with a radiator below it haha, couldn't be harder to place! The window has verticals blinds on it if this helps. It's South East facing. Fortunately I'm using a Wireless one for this, so tempted to try it and see if I get false alarms then reposition if I do?

I've read that the DTs can be placed in conservatories though so thought they were ideally for windows too, I've planned to use one in my conservatory eventually (5m x 5m) North-West facing (opposite end of house to this other room above)
conservatories get very hot, and hence why they are useful for that, however if the sun directly hits the sensrs it can still trigger both the PIR and the microwave.

I have DT's that are facing windows no other choice, having a blind should help top direct sunlight, best option set it up and move it if its a real problem on false alarming but you probably wont know that until summer.

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