Thin wall insulation

Joined
19 Nov 2008
Messages
905
Reaction score
22
Location
Dorset
Country
United Kingdom
Hi,
I would like to insulate my walls! There used to be rolls of 1/8 inch polystyrene, but I think it was a fire hazzard, so no more.
Is there any thin (say 5mm) board these days. I want to keep the picture rails and coving, so 5mm will be maximum, without a big job.
Cheers, Camerart
 
Sponsored Links
5mm insulation if it exists would ineffective at heat insulation .If you have time on your hands run around the room to keep warm.
 
Sponsored Links
5mm insulation if it exists would ineffective at heat insulation .If you have time on your hands run around the room to keep warm.
Hi F,
I've got the time, but not the will, to run around the room.
Thanks for your input.
C
 
You have to appreciate you're asking to defy the laws of physics; can't be done. It doesn't matter how much time you have to waste

The current UK building regulations require walls to have a U value of 0.18. This means for every square meter of wall, and every degree Celsius difference between inner and outer, the wall loses 0.18 watts of heat. If the house is 10 degrees warmer than the world and has 100 square metres of wall, it will require a 180 watt heater on constantly to maintain the temperature

The best generally available (walk into wickes and walk out with) insulation is polyurethane or polyisocyanurate board, more commonly referred to as kingspan or celotex. It had a lambda rating of 0.022 which means for every metre thickness of it, for every degree Celsius difference between one side and the other, it transmits 0.022 watts of heat

We don't use a metre thickness of it, but to save you the math, and assuming the wall were made of pure kingspan, you'd need 125 mm of it to meet UK regulations.

There are insulations available that are better, maybe even twice as good as kingspan - vacuum insulated panels and aerogels, not generally available and considerably more expensive.. but even if they're twice as good (transmit half the heat) you're still looking at 62mm of them to meet UK regs.

If you don't care about meeting regs of 0.18 then, using an estimate that you have 200mm of solid wall at a lambda of 1.75 and 5mm polystyrene at 0.033 adding the polystyrene will bring the wall from 3.5 to 2.3 watts per square metre per degree, or around 13 times worse than a new build house, down from 19.5 times worse than a new build
 
You have to appreciate you're asking to defy the laws of physics; can't be done. It doesn't matter how much time you have to waste

The current UK building regulations require walls to have a U value of 0.18. This means for every square meter of wall, and every degree Celsius difference between inner and outer, the wall loses 0.18 watts of heat. If the house is 10 degrees warmer than the world and has 100 square metres of wall, it will require a 180 watt heater on constantly to maintain the temperature

The best generally available (walk into wickes and walk out with) insulation is polyurethane or polyisocyanurate board, more commonly referred to as kingspan or celotex. It had a lambda rating of 0.022 which means for every metre thickness of it, for every degree Celsius difference between one side and the other, it transmits 0.022 watts of heat

We don't use a metre thickness of it, but to save you the math, and assuming the wall were made of pure kingspan, you'd need 125 mm of it to meet UK regulations.

There are insulations available that are better, maybe even twice as good as kingspan - vacuum insulated panels and aerogels, not generally available and considerably more expensive.. but even if they're twice as good (transmit half the heat) you're still looking at 62mm of them to meet UK regs.

If you don't care about meeting regs of 0.18 then, using an estimate that you have 200mm of solid wall at a lambda of 1.75 and 5mm polystyrene at 0.033 adding the polystyrene will bring the wall from 3.5 to 2.3 watts per square metre per degree, or around 13 times worse than a new build house, down from 19.5 times worse than a new build
Hi R,
Interesting, thanks.
I used 35mm Celotex in a Campervan conversion, and 70mm in the ceiling of a converted outside 9" solid coal shed/toilet, also 9" turbo blocks, in my last house, so I appreciate the need for thickness. Also in the converted toilet, the plaster board was cold and mouldy, so I stripped it and replaced it with foam adhesive instead of plaster adhesive, it is now mould free. I'm going to re-do it again with 50-100mm celotex, after talking to a planning officer next week.

Can you claify this line please? or around 13 times worse than a new build house, down from 19.5 times worse than a new build.

Regarding the cavity walls in the rooms here, I just want them warmer to the touch and perhaps less downdraft? I may use the underfloror stuff for 'say' B and Q. as there seems to be nothing suggested. It's just a matter of trying a section this winter.

Cheers, C.
 
Look up U Values on wikipedia, and if you drift off to american sites that use R values, they are the reciprocal of U values, and they use imperial units
 
Look up U Values on wikipedia, and if you drift off to american sites that use R values, they are the reciprocal of U values, and they use imperial units
Hi m,
I've done it before, and it doesn't stick, but I get the idea, and ask for advice instead, thanks.
Actually, I used to work on liquid gasses and did courses on it, and happy to almost for get it now :)
C.
 

DIYnot Local

Staff member

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Sponsored Links
Back
Top