This Puma 100e is driving me crazy...

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25 Nov 2005
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Lancashire
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Hi all
I hope someone might be able to offer some advice with this problem.

DHW appears OK, turn on the hot tap and the boiler lights and does what it should, however when I turn on the CH it lights the burner for about 45 seconds then turns off. It will then do this over the subsequent hours.

I have drained the boiler and refilled, checked the resistance of the Temp Sensors, not sure about how to test the OH Thermostat, appears to be closed all the time (well I did a continuity test and it appears as a short circuit, is that OK?)

Me and the brass monkey sat by my side, need some words of advice please.

Mac.
 
your fault is a common one which is nicknamed dripping hot tap syndrome for the simple reason that if you have a dripping hot tap this will cause this to happen if you havent got a hot tap dripping and you still get this fault then you have a faulty wax capsule diverter :wink:
 
Change diverter valve wax capsule but make sure you get new seals as old ones just crumble £84 hrp at plumb center if can afford whole diverter assembly just go for it easier to fit whole lot.
 
shaka said:
Change diverter valve wax capsule but make sure you get new seals as old ones just crumble £84 hrp at plumb center if can afford whole diverter assembly just go for it easier to fit whole lot.

but check you aint got dripping tap first as this may save you £84 :?

easiest way to test this is to isolate incoming cold water main ballofix valve under boiler :wink:
 
Thanks for your advice.

Would it be best to change the whole unit OR just the wax capsule?

Gaz, I've no idea what or where the ballofix valve is?

Any words of wisdom when changing the whole diverter valve?, whoever put this in did not put isolating valves on the CH Flow and Return.

Thanks guys :-)
 
Under boiler if you follow cold mains into boiler there will be a isolating valve to turn of cold feed into boiler. which come with boiler,if not turn off via stopcock into house this will isolate cold feed into boiler.Drain hot via lowest hot tap, close iso valves on flow and return drain diverter valve from small drain point, you will see it.Then just crack all joints then change valve go for the whole valve as your talking £134 at plumb center.
 
It can be much easier to change the wax capsule than the whole diverter. If access is restricted the nut at the back can be impossible without fancy tools.
And a pro can buy a wax capsule for about 1/3-1/4 the price of a whole valve.
 
I'm currently working on a boiler with a very similar fault, managed to catch it playing up today and the fault was the ch sensor.
 

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