tileling on plywood in shower area

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hi guys, need some help, i am having a new showeroom done and have been advised by the plumber that i need to have a stud wall on ONE side of the shower 1200 x 900 the 1200 side but it will go all the way along to the end of the wall which is 2500, he says that it will best use marine ply, but i said could we do it in WPB 18mm, the tiles that i will be putting up are 600x300 porcelin, what should seal the ply with before i tile, i need the stud to take the pipework & the aqulisa thermo control & jets
hope someone can help, thanks[/i]
 
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it would be best to tank the whole shower area, something along the lines of BAL WP1, thats what we use but lots of other options too, Homelux do a waterproof matting system that is applied with tile adhesive. Dunlop do a decent kit too



Video how to using dunlop materials

[urlhttp://www.metacafe.com/watch/1605048/how_to_tile_waterproof_shower_at_saimaxx/[/url]
 
Forget the ply (marine or wbp), just use plasterboard and tank it - much easier, cheaper and more stable to atmospheric conditions.
 
Video how to using dunlop materials

http://www.metacafe.com/watch/1605048/how_to_tile_waterproof_shower_at_saimaxx/[/QUOTE]The guy in this video, does not use tile spacers for the black and white tiles above the bottom row - tut tut. What little grout that has penetrated the joint has probably been wiped out of the joint by finishing wiping the grout off inline with the joint. :rolleyes:
Finally when he peels off the tape to leave the silicone seal, he should have gone over the silicone again with his finger - doing it the way he did leaves you with raised edges to the silicone.
 
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thanks guys, if i use plasterboard what type & what thickness & how far apart should the studs be, it has to be very strong to take the shower controls & the jets, one more thing, when tileling onto the tray is it best to put one of those plastic strips onto the tray that are designed to let the tiles slip into, and how big should the grout gaps be between the tiles i am using 600 x 300 porceline they are very heavy will the plasterboard take the weight, thanks again guys its great to have some pro help :?:
 
Video how to using dunlop materials

http://www.metacafe.com/watch/1605048/how_to_tile_waterproof_shower_at_saimaxx/[/QUOTE]The guy in this video, does not use tile spacers for the black and white tiles above the bottom row - tut tut. What little grout that has penetrated the joint has probably been wiped out of the joint by finishing wiping the grout off inline with the joint. :rolleyes:
Finally when he peels off the tape to leave the silicone seal, he should have gone over the silicone again with his finger - doing it the way he did leaves you with raised edges to the silicone.

Video was just to show snowsfield the basic procedure undertaken for 'tanking'
 
thanks guys, if i use plasterboard what type & what thickness & how far apart should the studs be, it has to be very strong to take the shower controls & the jets, one more thing, when tileling onto the tray is it best to put one of those plastic strips onto the tray that are designed to let the tiles slip into, and how big should the grout gaps be between the tiles i am using 600 x 300 porceline they are very heavy will the plasterboard take the weight, thanks again guys its great to have some pro help :?:

Your builder should be aware of the weight of the shower parts & build the stud wall accordingly, personally I'd go for 300mm centres & use a cement board like hardibacker which is a water resistant substrate on the shower side & 12.5mm plasterboard on the other side. But its upto you, you can use plasterboard on the shower side but be aware of the safe weight guidelines of 32kg/sqm on plasterboard, you should include 2-4kg/sqm for the adhesive & grout. Weigh 6 tiles on your scales that should give you an idea, or weigh 1 & multiply by 6 if your scales don't go that high.

You can use the waterproof trims if you like, personal choice really. Grout joints are the same, depends on personal preference. Some people go for 1 or 2mm, others go for 4 or 5mm, again upto you really.
 
Use backer board throughout, especially if it's studwork. If you must use PB in a shower, use Moisture resistant & tank/waterproof it or you may be doing it all over again before too long; more expensive initially but still a lot chaeper than ripping it all down & starting again after just a few years.
 
Video was just to show snowsfield the basic procedure undertaken for 'tanking'
Then why did you say
Video how to using dunlop materials
I'm not trying to be funny with you Paul, but it seems you're giving plenty of advice out and there's no problem with that as such.... I'm just trying to highlight that you need to make sure that each piece of advice you give cannot be misunderstood. A forum is not the easiest way to get advice so you need to make sure your advice is clear. You posted a link to a demo video showing tanking and tiling and said "video how to use dunlop materials", but in reality half of it was nonsense. That's no problem so long as you make mention of the fact - just posting the video as you did tends to suggest that that's the correct way to do it. Your advice is generally good but you do need to be careful on a forum such as this. ;)
 
If you must use PB in a shower, use Moisture resistant & tank/waterproof it or you may be doing it all over again before too long; more expensive initially but still a lot chaeper than ripping it all down & starting again after just a few years.
No need to use moiture resistant plasterboard if you're going to tank it.
 
Video was just to show snowsfield the basic procedure undertaken for 'tanking'
Then why did you say
Video how to using dunlop materials
I'm not trying to be funny with you Paul, but it seems you're giving plenty of advice out and there's no problem with that as such.... I'm just trying to highlight that you need to make sure that each piece of advice you give cannot be misunderstood. A forum is not the easiest way to get advice so you need to make sure your advice is clear. You posted a link to a demo video showing tanking and tiling and said "video how to use dunlop materials", but in reality half of it was nonsense. That's no problem so long as you make mention of the fact - just posting the video as you did tends to suggest that that's the correct way to do it. Your advice is generally good but you do need to be careful on a forum such as this. ;)

if im honest gcol most of your comments back seem quite petty, scrutinising every last little detail, when i'm trying to give a quick overview, I'm posting to try to give good clear honest advice where I can from my many years of tiling experience. You actually come across as quite unwelcoming & rather aggressive sometimes as per other posts in this forum. I get the feeling that as a pretty new member offering advice its unwelcome by you & maybe Im stepping on your toes a little, I dunno

If you actually read my post it states 'video how to using dunlop materials' as in Video how to - Using dunlop materials not how to use dunlop materials

If there is some kind of problem then pm or email me
 
come on guys settle down :) so if i use moister board & tank that it will be ok, & do i tape & fill the gaps between the boards & will it tkae 600x 300 porceline tiles & do the tiles need to be sealed They are matt finnish
thanks guys
both your help is much appritiated
 
Use normal plasterboard if your tanking,should be tape with the tanking kit,weight wise plasterboard will take 32kg per sq m,that includes adhesive and grout.
 
I get the feeling that as a pretty new member offering advice its unwelcome by you & maybe Im stepping on your toes a little, I dunno.
Sensitive sort eh? :LOL:
Calm down, take a deep breath and have another re-read of my last post. Start posting advice that is clear and not misleading and you won't hear a peep from me.
 

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