Tiling a bath ready for a shower over the bath.

[dobby101]

Hi please help me. I am getting so confused. I want to put a shower over the bath in (I will get a man in to do the actual shower)

The problems I am finding is the tiling. I need to take off the old tiles but upon reading I am slightly confused is there a special way to do it? I was told to use a bolster with hammer?

Secondly, when I retile do I need to score the walls in a cross? Then use adhesive tile grout? They didn't do it on you tube hehe

Also do I need to buy a waterproof tanking system? Before I tile? (I don't even know what one is)

And finally do I need to tile all the way to the celing? As it has a lip...at the very top of the wall?

I am sorry for such a long post with all the questions but I am getting so confused eveyone seems to say something different.

I will be greatful and thank all who reply. Many thanks

 

[iwaters]

I think you need to take some time and read the sticky at the top of this forum.

There is no special way for removing the tiles. If thy are stuck well they are going to damage the wall and you will have to deal with that when you are finished. I got something called a utility bar in B & Q. Its like a small crowbar with a hooked end, the ends are sharp and it is easy to bang in behind tiles and then pop off. Only a fiver.

If the wall is in good condition after you could use a tanking kit to make it water proof (plasterboard and water don't mix). If it is badly damaged best to remove and replace with concrete backer boards (which don't need tanking necessarily).

The rest of the info should be in the sticky. Always use good quality addheisve and grout (i.e. not the crud they sell in the DIY sheds).

 

[dobby101]

Thank you so much. I did as you suggested and read the sticky. But I am still unsure on if you have to score the walls? Where do you buy the waterproof tanking from (I did try homebase and it came up with vases) lol And how high do you have to tile?

Thank you once again

 

[Burnerman]

If your wall is nice and smooth, just go for it......as already said, removing the old tiles is very likely to take some plaster away, and this damage should be made good.
The height of the tiles is really up to you, but should naturally be above splash level.
The most important issue is the seal between the bath and the tiles, as this is where any leakage will occur. A quality silicone sealer is needed here.
John

 

[dobby101]

I do realise this is a silly question but how do you make good the plaster? Fill it? Or re plaster it?

Also if anyone could recommend the Waterproof tanking to use? I would be most grateful. I know dunlop and bal are mentioned in the sticky. Just wondered if there were any others? Cheaper the better.

 

[Burnerman]

It really depends on how much damage there is after the old tiles have been removed.....if there's just the odd chunk missing you'll do ok with some of the ready mixed stuff from B&Q etc.
If there's loads of plaster come adrift, and especially if some of it is loose anyway its probably a good move to get the wall professionally skimmed.
As for tanking - effectively this is coating the wall with a waterproof compound prior to retiling. Its usually applied with a roller. Whether or not you need it is debatable really - if you are down to plasterboard then its probably wise...if you are down to just plaster then you should be ok without it.
I've only used a compound from a firm called Webber or Weber - don't remember which!
The big secret is to use professional adhesives and grout (BAL for instance) and avoid the stuff from the sheds.
John

 

[dobby101]

Thank you once again.

Last question...I hope hehe

What are the better adheasives and grout to use? And where to buy them from?

Thanks again your a lifesaver.

 

[Burnerman]

I get what I need from Ceramic Tile Distributors - but I'm sure there are many other distributors of BAL (British Adhesives Limited) products.
Have a look at the BAL website to give you some idea of what you need.
BAL do ready mixed or powder to mix adhesives; most of the grouts are powder types - don't be fazed by mixing your own. The supplier will advise as to what you need for your particular tile, and will also fix you up with a notched trowel.
Most ready mixed adhesives are air dry, and most powder ones are chemical dry.
For silicone sealants, use Dow Corning or Mapei.
Again, and only personally I don't use white grout very often.....I prefer a contrasting colour that doesn't blacken over time.
Hope this helps!
John

 

[iwaters]

If the damage to the plaster is not too bad you can fill the holes with tile adhesive. If you really want to do it the day before and fill the large holes and let it set.

I would go with a bagged addy that you mix yourself. Its really easy,just follow the instructions carefully. For a bout a fiver you can get a mixer attachment for a drill which makes it simple.

I used Schulter Kerdi for water proofing, rather than a paint on tanking kit like the dunlop it is a polyester matting which is fixed in place with tile adhesive. It cost me £100 for enough to do a 760x760 shower area so not overly cheap but a good product. If you go down that route the required trowel is not easy to find so plan ahead!

As John as said get trade quality gear. BAL adhesives and grout are highly recommended and for silicone Dow Corning 785 is the stuff to go for - I did my ensuite almost 2 years ago and it is still as white as the day it came out of the tube, no mold,staining or anything. Make sure to use a grout with a fungicide to disaude mold growth. Topps Tiles stock all this stuff but are expensive, the internet is you friend when it comes to buying supplies.

 

[tictic]

What is the actual substrate you have...

Sand/cement render....

Plasterboard and skim Finnish.....

Post pics of the area.....

What size/type off tiles are you wanting to fix to the walls.....

Give answers to the above....then we will tell you best ......preperation/adhesives/waterproofing ect ect...

 

[dobby101]

Burnerman - Thank you for all your help it is much appreciated. I will look up CTD.


iwaters Thank you I will do some searching on the internet to find some prices. Handy tip about using adhesive for any holes.


tictic I think it is plasterboard with a skim...I have some photos of the bit I want to tile.

//media.diynot.com/193000_192850_56624_54611072_thumb.jpg

//media.diynot.com/193000_192850_56625_57795415_thumb.jpg

//media.diynot.com/193000_192850_56626_29391795_thumb.jpg

I hope these photos work. Ideally I would like the shower on the wall wirh the light switch, The second photo is of the lip...I don't know why that is there or what it is so don't know weather to tile it or not. The next photo is of the window bit. I am not too sure how far to tile up the window? Ermm oh the tiles I have are Ceramic B&Q Veneer White Wall Tiles 9 3/4 "x 13" I did have some diy shed grout and adheasive but that won't be happening now. I need to sauce some more.

I do appreciate all your help.

 

[tictic]

Ok
Use a hammer and bolster and take the splasback tiles off the wall...
IMO it's just plasterboard with emulsion paint above the splashback...is it a new build house you have...?

Can you give a wider pic of the bath...where are the taps..???
And the area to be tiled...
Is that a wooden plinth around the top off the wall,if so take that off also..or is it service pipes that are boxed in...?

You have a window inside your wet area,so I take it you will be using a shower curtain..or will you be flashing at any neighbours...

What type off shower are you going with..electric/thermostatic...?

 

[tictic]

Not very good pics...but the the third pic...is that the pull cord/switch for the light...if so is it in the wet area...ie over the bath...?

 

[tictic]

Can you post wider/better pics off the whole area around/above the bath area...

 

[dobby101]

Tictic- The house was built in the 50's thats all I know about it really. The taps are located by the window side. The plinth I think is plastic I have no idea what is behind it. haha I will be having a shower curtain...dont' want to be flashing anyone. I was planning an electric shower...the thermostatic look like a lot more work. I took the photos on my mobile so I don't know how to make them wider. :S

Yes what you see on the wall is the pull cord. On that wall would be where the shower would be. I assume it will have to be moved? Is that something major or or something that can be done easially? the area to be tiled would be all around wouldn't it? I don't know if you have to do all the window bit.

I do appreciate your advise in this. It seems its more confusing by the day.