Tiling a cupboard door

[jonwestuk]

Hi,

I have a cupboard in my downstairs bathroom that houses a few vital items that require infrequent access:

- Stop Cock
- Soil Stack
- Fan Shut-Off Isolation Switch

I want the door to be as concealed as possible and was hoping to tile it. I realise that any door is going have a slight amount of movement in it, which is bad news for tile adhesive.

Has anyone got any ideas as to what I could do to provide every possibility that the adhesive will work and the tiles will stay secure.

My ideas:
1. Use Plywood and fully seal it with PVA/Acrylic sealant
2. Put some horizontal angled scores across the wood to aid adhesion
3. Install a steel bar under the door to provide support to the tiles for any downward force.

Other questions:
- What is the best tile adhesive for such a situation, would something like grip fill offer any advantage for such situations?

 

[jonwestuk]

 

[Tigercubrider]

does it have to be a door? rather than a trap?
ie a panel that is removable and relies on actually sitting on supports rather than hinges

 

[JohnD]

I agree. I'd make a rigid panel from 18mm ply, possibly secured by screws in the corners, and tile that. You can fix battens on the inside surface to locate it squarely into the wall. I doubt it will need extra stiffening.

If you want to make it quick-opening, to get to the stopcock urgently when you have a leak, you could have it lift-out with a few magnetic catches or a latch, and fit a small handle.

If the battens are a good fit in the "doorframe" your fixings only need to be enough to prevent it falling out under gravity.

Whoever is trying to deal with your leak may not know where you have hidden the stopcock, and may not have tools to hand, so make life easy for them.

p.s.
PVA glue is not water-resistant and is unsuitable in bathrooms.

p.p.s.

the fan isolation switch should be in plain view, not hidden away behind a door or panel. If it can be 2250mm or higher above the floor, e.g. just under the ceiling, it will be outside the zones.
http://electrical.theiet.org/wiring-matters/53/section-701/index.cfm

 

[jonwestuk]

Thanks all, a trap would be better I agree, but the size of that gap means that the trap door would be really heavy. I doubt my wife or an elderly person would be able to access the inside without assistance. Personally I even prefer having two people for that job.

Are there any other ideas that might help making a door solution work? I guess my stupidy was in thinking that a screwed trap door was just a more efficient and easier to manage version of a trap door and I was not taking into account any bending of the wood in the closing and opening of the door.

I guess another option would be to reinforce the back of the door with steel to remove any bending or warping through the open and close action? Thoughts?

 

[JohnD]

the size of that gap means that the trap door would be really heavy.

what size is it?

 

[foxhole]

Lift off hinges to base and secured with a couple of Keku clips at top, suction pad to open when required, leaves flush tiled finish.Foam tape to a timber lip inside would ensure tight seal around edges.

 

[jonwestuk]

what size is it?

1m wide by 1.5 m approximately. It is properly heavy.

I currently have it secured with parliament hinges and it feels pretty stable.