i about to build a studded wall for use in a shower cubical , what is it best to line the inside before i tile it , Plaster board , Aqua Panels or Marine Ply ? Also is it wise to use flexible grout ?
Tiling inside shower cubical ? Help
- Thread starter steve340
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people will say aqua panels (or similar)
i have fitted all of mine with plasterboard and had no call backs ( 8 yrs on)
flexible is for wood where poss movement might occur...so if you use marine ply then consider flexible
i would use plasterboard, sealant, adhesive, tile and finally grout.
i have fitted all of mine with plasterboard and had no call backs ( 8 yrs on)
flexible is for wood where poss movement might occur...so if you use marine ply then consider flexible
i would use plasterboard, sealant, adhesive, tile and finally grout.
bull plop
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If your thinking of using normal plasterboard then theres a cheaper option, use blotting paper.
Or if you want a professional opinion use appropriate material such as concrete board such as Aqua panel
Alternatively follow the current trend of throwing things away and by using cheaper materials you can rip it out after a few years and start again.
My personal preference is to use plasterboard and a tanking product - that will give a 100% water-tight job.
Sorry, but I just don't undertsand these constant references to aquaboard and tanking.
If you use a good quality tile adhesive and grout, then follow correct tiling and grouting practice, there will not be a probem.
I tiled a bathroom, inc shower area, on plasterboard for a client 16 years ago.
During a recent refurb, there was no water damage to the plasterboard anywhere!
If you use a good quality tile adhesive and grout, then follow correct tiling and grouting practice, there will not be a probem.
I tiled a bathroom, inc shower area, on plasterboard for a client 16 years ago.
During a recent refurb, there was no water damage to the plasterboard anywhere!
Assuming you mean 'problem' then I think that's a statement you shouldn't be making so carte blanche.
So you base your opinion on this? There are many factors that will facilitate the passage of moisture through to the wall - tile size, tile thickness, wall movement and frequency of use of shower are all variables.
Assuming you've been tiling for at least 16 years, I'd like to bet that you've seen a few plasterboard (or plaster) walls with water damage. I'd also like to bet that more than a few of the installations have been well fitted using good materials.
Sure, using good adhesive and grout is important, but you can't guarantee that moisture will not get through to damage the walls unless you tank. Personally, I won't use aquapanel because there's no need for it - tanking plasterboard gives a bomb-proof job.
Yes I suppose I could say that, but I won't.
gcol,
I take your points. However at the time of posting I'm assuming it's a properly built stud wall with no movement and a shower of average use.
I would totally agree with you about tanking should the shower be of very heavy use, or the wall having movement.
I don't tile day in day out as perhaps you do, just when I'm doing a bathroom or kitchen re-fit. Maybe it's just coincidence, but I rarely find water damage after removing old tiles. Possibly because correct tiling practice was followed in the first instance!
The only exception to this is underneath shower trays, where I've found water damage quite often. It's normally due to the tray not being double sealed and sloppy use of sealant, but not the tiling. It's often the same scenario around bath edges.
I take your points. However at the time of posting I'm assuming it's a properly built stud wall with no movement and a shower of average use.
I would totally agree with you about tanking should the shower be of very heavy use, or the wall having movement.
I don't tile day in day out as perhaps you do, just when I'm doing a bathroom or kitchen re-fit. Maybe it's just coincidence, but I rarely find water damage after removing old tiles. Possibly because correct tiling practice was followed in the first instance!
The only exception to this is underneath shower trays, where I've found water damage quite often. It's normally due to the tray not being double sealed and sloppy use of sealant, but not the tiling. It's often the same scenario around bath edges.
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I have to agree with gcol on this and always tank shower areas and about 30cm around bath top,prevention is better than cure.
I do bathroom refits,mainly tiling walls and floors with some plasterboarding and boxing in.I have found many baths where water has seeped through and damaged the plasterboard up to 15cm above the line of the bath.
The way I look at it a tub of tanking fluid that I use costs about £60 and will do roughly 8-10 bathrooms (2 coats) at six quid a time for piece of mind and about 45 minutes work I think its a small price to pay
Given the choice 99% of customers go with tanking.
If the walls were tanked all the way to the floor and then say 30cm or so on the floor this wouldn't cause a problem.
I do bathroom refits,mainly tiling walls and floors with some plasterboarding and boxing in.I have found many baths where water has seeped through and damaged the plasterboard up to 15cm above the line of the bath.
The way I look at it a tub of tanking fluid that I use costs about £60 and will do roughly 8-10 bathrooms (2 coats) at six quid a time for piece of mind and about 45 minutes work I think its a small price to pay
Given the choice 99% of customers go with tanking.
If the walls were tanked all the way to the floor and then say 30cm or so on the floor this wouldn't cause a problem.
Unfortunately, the worst tiles for allowing moisture through are also the most common. That's the 150mm (6") square tiles (usually white). The problem is that they're too thin - the grout depth is only about 4mm and that's not really deep enough to prevent moisture from soaking through to the wall (even in a shower that gets average use).
I don't tile for a living any more but when I did, I saw enough walls that were soggy and mouldy to know that tanking is a good idea.
Even with large thick tiles, I've found that problems in shower enclosures are generally with the bottom row of tiles. Poor installation of the tray and stud walls lead to movement and cracking of the grout line above the bottom row - water soaks into the plasterboard and the adhesive comes away from the plasterbaord.
So whether you have thin or thick tiles, whether you have well made walls and secure support for trays or not, I would always recommend the use of a tanking product around each and every shower for peace of mind.
Now I'm late for the pub! Later.
I don't tile for a living any more but when I did, I saw enough walls that were soggy and mouldy to know that tanking is a good idea.
Even with large thick tiles, I've found that problems in shower enclosures are generally with the bottom row of tiles. Poor installation of the tray and stud walls lead to movement and cracking of the grout line above the bottom row - water soaks into the plasterboard and the adhesive comes away from the plasterbaord.
So whether you have thin or thick tiles, whether you have well made walls and secure support for trays or not, I would always recommend the use of a tanking product around each and every shower for peace of mind.
Now I'm late for the pub! Later.
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