Tilling over holes

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Some electrics have been moved around in the kitchen splashback area and now it needs to be re-tiled. mosaics are going to be used. Please look at the picture ...
wall.jpg


what would be the recommended preparation process prior to tiling?

Many thanks
 
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One coat plaster.

Incidently, I wouldn't be putting tiles onto that glossy worktop like that - it'll scratch. You may come to regret that worktop in a few weeks.
 
I have to say Mate that those electrics look a bit messy, the new socket cable looks split and that extension bit from the old socket looks decidedly iffy. You could easily tidy it up with a little trunking.

I'd also get a MK switch plate to match the MK socket plate - makes all the difference on the finish. Also I would scrub down the old fat splashes from the plaster, before sticking the tiles.

Post the pic in the electical section and see what the response is.

By the way those tiles are really good looking when they are up. Did my neighbours bathroom in them and they were a joy to lay and grout.
 
your proably right - but worktop is 7mths old already and still shiney and tiles have 'soft' matting on rear - thanks for the reply. is it going to be okay to enclose the chock block in the housing you can see in the picture and plaster this in? I realise that if something 'goes wrong' over time i would be screwed and have to remove tiles...

Thanks..
 
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is it going to be okay to enclose the chock block in the housing you can see in the picture and plaster this in? I realise that if something 'goes wrong' over time i would be screwed and have to remove tiles...

No, all screwed connections should be made available for test and inspection.
 
i would say the connector block needs taping up or covering with trunking etc, to stop the moisture from the plaster causing you problems
 
i would say the connector block needs taping up or covering with trunking etc, to stop the moisture from the plaster causing you problems

So in other words just bodge it up?
Just like the now bodged up ring final connected to what looks like 15A connector blocks.
 
Cables should be kept double insulated as close to the terminal block as poss then block the needs choc boxing (I see you have one on the side)
Not too sure about plastering it in though.

The cables should all be in trunking as if you plaster over bare cables plaster will over time eat into the insulation.

What is the round white cable for?Going to an extractor perhaps?If it is then it should have a fused switch fitted (check the rating of the appliance) between the the source point and appliance.

Where have you spurred the plug from,you would be best to remove the old split cable right back to the source point and replace.

You would be best to post this in the electrics forum as mentioned before thinking about tiling over anything but be prepared as the won't be gentle with you.

You would also need the wiring tested before final fix by a part p tester as it is a kitchen installation.
 
Does part P mean anything to you?

Please PM ypur address so I don't every buy your house.
Your electrics are well dodgy.
 
As said above, you electrics should conform to Part P and this work is notifiable.

I don't think you can tile over that choc block, i think the only way you may get around that connection is to crimp the cables and insulate but i'm not 100%.

Definately post this on the electrics forum as i don't think its as cut and dry as just plastering over and tiling.
 
you cannot plaster over those choc blocks.in fact you cant do anything to that wall unless you sort out that deadly lash up of an electrical installation.
fair enough,you may live but what about the people you sell the house to.

if thats the best you are capable of then dont bother.

pointless trying to part p that,no spark is going to touch it.15 quids worth of materials and all will be well though(apart from the damaged cable coming out of that socket).

sorry to be harsh but thats awful and you need telling so.
 
and you tooled up the ring main off that choc block(wired wrongly and chock block wrong size and inaccesible)
.thats not how you do it ,and as garymo said earlier you absolutely cannot bury that chock block.


never confuse safe circuit design with the mere ability to connect pieces of cables together
 
OK - I've stopped laughing at your electrics. (Had to laugh otherwise I'd be crying at the state of them).

From your profile, you live in England. That means only a qualified electrician can touch your kitchen electrics. If you bodge it, you not be able to sell your house and when is goes on fire, you will not be able to claim on the insurance.

SORT IT OUT!!!!!!

I'm not a spark but here are some clear things that an ELECTRICIAN MUST FIX

Replace the split cable coming from the double socket.
Ensure all cable is in protective trunking - like the metal one running vertically on the left hand side.

Sort out the spurs. You can only have one spur from the double socket.
I can't tell where your ring main is running but it should be vertical to the floor. (The split cable?)
That means you can only have the white acble running up the wall or the horizontal spur.

If the white cable is going to an appliance it needs an FCU. above the double socket.

The switch - should be an FCU. Change it.
Cable should not run diagonally so the wire that is trapped by the double socket needs to be sorted. As does the cable that cuts above the switch, and goes up the wall.

The join - oh dear.

Looks like there was a socket of sorts there. Too close to the hob - as is your switch. They should be at least 30cm from the hob.

You must have an accessable junction box there unless you crimp and double insulate the join.
It looks like you have two cables wrongly wired to one - no no no!

If you draw the connections you are trying to achieve an post to electric forum there are people who will help you.
 
From your profile, you live in England. That means only a qualified electrician can touch your kitchen electrics

Thats not strictly true,provided a part p tester/inspector checks the work at first and final fix a competent diyer can carry out the work themselves and still be issued with a part p cert by the tester to cover insurance and selling your property.Always best to contact one first before carrying out the work though as some can be a bit iffy about doing it.
 

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