Toilet flush problem....

[spikeyv81]

my toilet has a handle rather then a push button to flush the toilet. It has a lift arm and floating ball system. Recently i'm having to quickly turn the handle twice in order to get the toilet to flush properly. If I turn the handle slowly a little bit of water leaves the tank and the toilet isn't flushed. I've mastered the technique but others are struggling.

I've had a look at the handle to make sure its not loose, it is a tiny bit wobbly. I've also looked at the lift rod and floating ball to see if I can see anything a miss.

Any ideas or advice on what it could be? I was considering converting from handle to push button. But I have a curved stlye toilet so the button wont sit properly.

Thanks in advance.

 

[footprints]

Assuming it is a standard type syphon the diaphragm in the syphon unit is split and needs replacing.

To save lot's of explaining I found this page that shows it quite well.

http://www.handymanknowhow.co.uk/plumbing/toiletwontflush.htm

The diaphragm is a thin plastic sheet under the black framework it splits and so cannot create the suction required to start flushing.

I usually don't bother replacing diaphragms, instead fit a new unit like the Dudley turbo 88 that is designed to allow the unit to be dismantled by just removing one pin saving all the dismantling of the cistern assembly next time.

A new diaphragm then takes about ten mins as opposed to hours if you have a close coupled unit that is rusted up.

Post a picture it may be you are lucky and have a syphon that can be split in situ already.

 

[spikeyv81]

Thank you, the diagram helped a lot. That is the system I'll look at the diaphragm.

Is there a easy way to isolate the water to the toilet? or is it a matter of turning off the mains water?

 

[footprints]

Depends if your toilet is mains or tank fed.
If there is no isolation valve on the inlet pipe try turning off the mains,the water should stop more or less instantly, if it keeps running you need to find a valve from the tank to shut off the supply.
Tieing up the ball valve in the cistern is no good as you will have very poor access even if you do have a syphon that can be dismantled.

PS if it is a close coupled cistern and you have to remove it you must fit a new "donut" washer between the cistern and pan when refitting or it will leak when flushing

 

[spikeyv81]

Perfect makes sense. Thank you for all your help and advise, gives me the knowledge and confidence to tackle the job.