Toilet Pan on the move

Whats with the "Meow"? Pussies meow - are you telling the thread that in the last resort your a pussy?
Cant argue with that.
Or is it meant as some kind of la la land technical response - or is it some kind of go to last resort when googling fails you?
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Would you post a pic of the whole WC showing how the the cistern is supported?

FWIW: the term "pan connector" is the correct terminology - "soil pipe connectors" are different kinds of fittings.
Take the old pan connector with you when you buy a new one, & take the measured outside diameter of the pan spigot.
The pic changes things.
So the cistern is presently being supported by the flush pipe or are there Ell brackets below it - there should be?
Why not post another pic showing the full cistern?

Leaving the WC in the same position you could use spacers (we use off-cuts of 15mm coppr pipe) to pick up the gap at the cistern fixing holes. Drill, plug, & then screw through the spacers of your choice.
There are brackets supporting the cistern to the wall ...I don't believe the cistern is a problem.

I will post more pics later today.

I don't understand your spacer suggestion, gap etc.

That pan needs to be attached to the floor,it is designed to be screwed to the floor to prevent water leaking due to movement.

The underfloor heating may not be in the toilet pan zone,who knows ?

to be honest you need to call in a competent/insured person to attach it to the floor,not really diy.
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Try using a good quality silicone (Dow Corning) to stick it down and see how it goes. You don't have anything to lose really.

I think it will difficult to secure it this way though, especially as it's a free standing pan and not close coupled.
Try using a good quality silicone (Dow Corning) to stick it down and see how it goes. You don't have anything to lose really.

The only problem with this trick Denso, is that if there's still a problem, then you've got to cut through the silicone, clean it off the floor, turn the toilt upside down and clean it off that etc etc. If you know you've found the problem, then fine, but sods law means that this would be done in the hope of solving the problem, but would cause lot's more trouble if the problems elsewhere.

With the OPS current layout, he'd be moving the connectors around trying to get the sealant underneath, and there's no gurantee that he'd get a good seal with all the movement.
Hypothetically, if the pan was accidentally damaged in a "Diy accident" a whole new close coupled setup could be claimed on insurance and fitted by an approved certified installer (y)
get a fitter with a thermal image camera to check for heating circuit, if its in the way drill some holes into the tile only and fix pan down with strong concreate mix, half a bucket should do it.
Interesting point Big Snoop. But is it electric or wet, and if you get it wrong, there'll be hell to pay. If it's a wet system, then he might be able to work out the locations using an IR thermometer as the floor warms up. But drilling into the tile, and then fitting in a cut down rawlplug using epoxy resin, might be a workable idea - except what happens when someone uses a longer screw than the carefully measured one.
Nice bead of white 785 around the perimeter - tooled to a chamfer.
It won't budge and will look nice and neat.

That's what I'd do :)
me too, when we moved into this house someone hadn't screwed the pan down but instead had squirted big blobs of silicone through the screw holes and then silicone around the perimeter took quite an effort to shift it.
Doggit does however make a good point that if it doesn't solve the problem then the clean up becomes time consuming and protracted.
Are you sure the UFH goes under the kazzi, normal practice would be to avoid such areas.

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