Toilet plumbing issue

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Southampton
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Hi. I have this toilet that does not clear very well when flushed. I think the issue is the sewage pipe is higher than the back of the toilet outlet. I was thinking to cut the cast iron pipe with an angle grinder somewhere near the red line and attach a collar so the outlet is level, if not downwards. There is the scope to move the bowl back about six inches if needed. So, my question to those of you in the know, is this the correct thing to do? If so, will cutting through the cast iron pipe with a diamond cutting disc be straight forward? Does the collar have a specific name so I can find it on screwfix? Anything I should be aware of? Many thanks for any input.
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Is this an new issue, or has it always been like that? Are you able to raise the floor slightly, which might be easier than cutting the cast iron. Is the toilet a standard syphon? Yes **** doesn’t go uphill, and does need sorting, not entirely sure you can get the desired angle, which is why I suggested the floor option.
 
Toilet connectors fit inside the cast iron pipe so the old collar can be cut off. You will probably need a new connector of the right size.
Angle grinder will throw up dust. We did one with a hacksaw - we got a packet of new blades and me and my son took shifts of 10 minutes or so. Took 2-3 hours, with a new blade every now and then and tea.
 
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Hi. Thanks for the reply. It has been like it seemingly forever. It causes the bowl to discolour as I suspect the waste is remaining behind the u-bend. I have someone coming on monday to lay some lino. 6mm ply is being laid but this will not lift the loo up high enough. I wish I had thought about it before and would have changed the 6mm for 18, possibly more, to raise everything, but the 6mm has been purchased. I guess I could build a plinth step and raise the whole loo area. Dont know how easy it is to lino over a step though.
 
Dust is the issue. Several hours with a hacksaw, man! but not sure the blades on my multi tool would cut it, easier than by hand but the blades dont seem to last on anything.
 
Once you have cut the cast iron, measure the internal diameter 80, 85 or 90mm and get the connector of the size and length required. Search for "cast iron toilet connector". As the outlet slopes downward, you mayneed another flexi like the one you have.
 
Failing the floor option, you could cut the cast iron as close to the wall as you can, and this may get you the best angle, using an mkea multikwik and mks2.
 
If using an angle grinder as Matty said dust is the problem. I did exactly this last weekend and 2 hours later having hovered the floor etc the shower tray, walls and floor was covered in rusty spots. Luckily for me it scrubbed off with some elbow grease and aerial washing powder. It was everywhere!
 
Thanks guys. The cistern is held up by a small wood frame, hence the ability to move it back a bit, but there is a large cupboard on the wall above the loo so cant go all the way back. A google search has suggested that the cast iron pipe can be cut fairly easily with a reciprocating saw. I cant find any diamond blades for sale, as recommended, that I can pick up tomorrow but I have lots of metal blades that I can burn up. Hopefully will not produce too much dust. Will follow all your recommendations of the pan fittings. Feeling much more confident that I can solve this problem. Many thanks all.
 
You wouldn't use a diamond blade on cast, you would use a 1mm metal cutting blade. It'll take about 5 minutes to cut through the pipe, let the grinder weight do the work, don't force it. Yes there's a bit of dust but beats sewage dripping all over the floor IMO.

Then you'll need to measure the diameter of the cast but it'll probably need a 80/90mm (3 - 3.5") pan connector. Not sure if Screwfix still carry 3.5" pan connectors.
 

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