Toilet Soil Pipe Fitting leaking

13 Nov 2007
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United Kingdom
We have a leaking bathroom toilet.

After the toilet is flushed, a few drops of water leak from soil pipe joint and nowhere else AFAIK.

The photo of the soil pipe is how it has always been since we moved in 6 years ago. I'm wondering if it was even fitted correctly?

I'm ready to call in a professional, but just wanted to check first that it's not just a quick fix to push back the rubber and seal with plumber's mait.


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Snap the plastic ring back onto the pan connector. Ideally though the toilet would be moved forward first, connector taken out, seal checked then the plastic ring snapped back on and then refitted.
Thanks. Would you recommended pushing the rubber seal in before snapping the plastic ring back? It looks to me like it is askew.

And should I use plumber's mait or try without first?

I checked the other toilets in the house which were installed at same time as this one and all those joins are snapped into place as you would expect. Could this one have popped out or was it not snapped on in the first place, maybe because of the angle of the join?

Thanks again for the advice.
Poorly fitted originally ,where the pan connector enters the floor there is a shed load of silicone .looks like it goes into a socket rather than a soil pipe. You don't use plumbers mate by the way. Seal goes into the pan connector first ,the plastic ring holds it in. Better done as madrab said above.
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It's more than likely going to fail again at a later date as the fittings don't line up. You might be able to get a flexi connector to go out the back, and then flow back into the sol pipe. Or as Madrab suggest, as it'll be best to remove the toilet to work on it, then maybe best to bring it forward, and support the cistern on a bit of wood behind it for now.
Is that a chipboard floor? If so, your pan may be going through the floor in the near future,
you can get a WC pan with a downward-facing spigot to fit into your floor connector, without needing an extra elbow.

Not many around, but Twyfords E100 and Alcona can be ordered in "BO" (bottom outlet) versions. They are modern, close-coupled units. There are more old-fashioned low-level WCs.
Measure the distance from wall to centre of soil pipe very carefully. The pans are usually made to fit about 200mm to 250mm and are not adjustable except by spacing the cistern off the wall.

There are also a few cheap ones on ebay and other places, might not be as good.

You will position the spigot, then fix the pan to the floor. It may not be in quite the same position as your current badly-fitted pan.
Thank you all for taking the time to reply. I took your suggestion Madrab (before reading all the other replies) and snapped the plastic ring back on. The rubber seal needed to be pushed into the soil pipe first and that was tricky as it was quite a cramped space to work with my sausage fingers, but I found that the rubber was able to move a little at a time by squeezing it in with my finger tips.

I flushed a few times and touch wood no leaks so far. Have left some paper towels underneath and will monitor it to make sure it doesn't come back.

I'm not sure what the floor is made of, but that's not given us any cause for concern (the house itself is only 14 years old). We've not had too many issues with the house and most of the ones we have had centre around the plumbing - I have a feeling they gave that job to the apprentice. Hopefully this is the last one.

Thanks to everyone who read/replied to this post. I would never have had the confidence to fix it myself without the help and its scored me loads of brownie point with the missus.


The biggest problem you have there though is that the pan is pushed too far back and it's pushing the pan connector back at an angle. That and a cheap connector who's inlet narrows

Get a better pan connector from McAlpine, it has a more uniform fit and doesn't narrow like that one does, that allows the spigot to go further back into the connector and therefore keeping it vertical.
Yeah, even I can see it's poorly fitted. So far, so good after refitting the cap.

If it becomes a problem again, I'll get a professional to fit the correct connector you mentioned.

Thanks again.
I dont think thats an 'if, it's going to be 'when' it starts leaking again. If that comes apart mid flush, you are going to end up with an unholy mess. Its the wrong connector for that geometry, either move the pan forward, or ideally, change the connector for one that fits correctly.

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