I would have said the same for my living room. But a new thermostat in the living room cured my problems. It was simply down to the boiler not running long enough.
That makes me think not the thermostat at fault, however nearly every room in my house would get warm with a 1 kW electric fan heater, so the radiator needs to be very small not to heat the hall.
Because, generally, they work perfectly well. There is no point over complicating things if it isn't needed.
Do they? I have looked at many homes where mechanical TRV's are fitted, and the owner has just turned them up to max, as no idea how they work.
now I had something I could work with, the setting was easy, if the current exceeded target unless sun through the bay window, then the lock shield valve needed closing a bit, took a bit of time, but once set it remained spot on. The boiler did not switch on/off all the time, and once room warm the radiators remained warm, not hot, or cold, just maintained the room temperature remaining warm.
it was designed to instigate a mark/space ratio, slowly decreasing the Mark time, so it did not over shoot, and cause a hysteresis, great idea for an on/off boiler, but for a modulating boiler, it stopped the boilers own controls working. Darn expensive thermostat, very clever, but not for a modulating boiler, each time it turned off, and back on again, the boiler had to start working out what output was required from scratch.
Yes. I've said before, mine are all set and all I do is turn up the Hive if I want more heat and turn it down if too warm. It couldn't be any simpler.
But Hive used electronic TRV heads.
It can also be used without
Yes, but why would you, the whole reason in my case of getting Drayton Wiser was it could work with linked TRV heads, even if not linked, at least programmable, what is the point of a programmable wall thermostat if the TRV heads are not also programmable, even with the useless Nest Gen 3, I would set the thermostat down a degree an hour before I wanted a room to be heated, then up a degree when the room is being heated to ensure the boiler was running.
Because some people aren't arsed or not interested. I have explained this many a time to our customers (social housing) and unfortunately they don't seem to want to know. Perhaps they don't like or are afraid of change?
I can see your point, in mother's house 4 rooms used regular, the two upstairs rooms only at night, and enough heat came from downstairs so could turn off heating at night, two rooms downstairs mother bedroom would be heated during the day as the programmer turned off heating at night, not ideal, as room could over cool, but never got around to doing anything about it. The living room was the main room during the day, and if there had not been a bay window which could catch the sun, a single thermostat in the living room would have likely worked.
completely inappropriate for a condensing boiler. I did no better, used this 
the cheapest programmable thermostat I could find, and it would lose the wireless link, and fail to turn the boiler off, my own house had a single hard-wired 
which worked great, between the two down-stairs rooms in an open-plan house, but mother's house was a nightmare.
Because it is much simpler and works just fine in the vast majority of cases. There is no need to complicate things when it isn't required.
If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.
Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.
Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local
