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TREATED DAMP STILL THERE
- Thread starter wossie6
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Nige F said:I`ve got an answer but it would involve you doing some technical moves. I`m sure you`ve studied yoga, as thoroughly as you`ve studied all the other things you know aboutYou`re still working.I`m retired and wondering what to do this afternoon after my silly comment session on the computer. Unfortunately the play park has closed for the winter
No - I know nothing about Yoga, nor anything else you're blithering about (above).
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Without going into the debate at the moment of the whys and wherefors...Even the dampest of cellars, basements underground car parks etc etc can be tanked with ease and will stop the damp from penetrating through so in effect acts as a barrier between wall and internal plaster skimmed finish.
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No on the contrary rising damp does indeed exist but the point I made on another thread was that it is blamed for a manner of problems that are unassociated.
Where I live we use concrete block for the vast majority of construction and believe me they take in alot of moisture in capiilary whatever its called. Just stand block canches on a raft slab covered in tarpaulin and they are saturated through after rainfall.
Where I live we use concrete block for the vast majority of construction and believe me they take in alot of moisture in capiilary whatever its called. Just stand block canches on a raft slab covered in tarpaulin and they are saturated through after rainfall.
Sadly, legs, your experience is with blocks .What we are looking for is a definitive experience with bricks. Now softlad does not mention the age or type of brick in question, but he/she is adamant that damp does not rise up through one brick to another. So we have a large spectrum to play with, From the ubiquitous" London Brick" fletton To the Early Roman, at least. As it`s probably easier to contact London Brick. co.ltd. I shall do that.
Nige F said:Aw come on legs. The guy clearly states that damp does not rise through bricks, only behind render. Have you bowed to his superior intellect,as he stoops to concur with other posters.Blither blather
Crazy man say what?!
what a can of whop ass ive opened and i only want answers,damp company do not use wykamol anymore,they got another ,is that why they say ive invaledated the guarantee,but guys stop arguing or ill get my size 12 out and me baseball bat 
and i only want answers,damp company do not use wykamol anymore,they got another ,is that why they say ive invaledated the guarantee,but guys stop arguing or ill get my size 12 out and me baseball bat 
without getting into the other argument running on here, there are a number of resons why you may be suffering from damp still, other than the dpc. Damp meters in the hands of people who sell dpc remedies are great as they always find damp. The reason is that they measure the damp on the surface of the room. Now if your room is suffering from damp due to condensation youll still get a damp reading and hey presto they sell you damp treatment. the only true way to know if a wall has a problem with damp through a failed dpc is to use a core sample from the wall, but that gets a little messy and expensive.
Damp in a room is more often than not caused by a number of other factors rather than the damp proof course failing, and until the source of the damp is removed it will continue to be a problem eg a blocked gutter/downpipe causing water to continually fall against the face of a wall, a bridged dpc, a blocked gully overflowing, rubbish in the cavity etc etc. Another cause is internal damp better known as condensation caused by insufficent ventilation. Have a good look around your house and the outside to see if theres anything obvious. Also try increased ventilation.
As for bricks not being porus, well thats how the process of laying them works, as the brick sucks the water out of the mortar. That s why hard bricks such as an engineering brick can only be laid a few courses at a time, as they are not porus and designed to be so as they are pressed so hard (used in manholes etc). They dont suck the mortar and remain fairly unstable when laying until the mortar has gone off. The rest eg stocks facings commons etc are mainly porus. (another reason why we have cavity walls on buildings) oh dear i just got into the argument!
Damp in a room is more often than not caused by a number of other factors rather than the damp proof course failing, and until the source of the damp is removed it will continue to be a problem eg a blocked gutter/downpipe causing water to continually fall against the face of a wall, a bridged dpc, a blocked gully overflowing, rubbish in the cavity etc etc. Another cause is internal damp better known as condensation caused by insufficent ventilation. Have a good look around your house and the outside to see if theres anything obvious. Also try increased ventilation.
As for bricks not being porus, well thats how the process of laying them works, as the brick sucks the water out of the mortar. That s why hard bricks such as an engineering brick can only be laid a few courses at a time, as they are not porus and designed to be so as they are pressed so hard (used in manholes etc). They dont suck the mortar and remain fairly unstable when laying until the mortar has gone off. The rest eg stocks facings commons etc are mainly porus. (another reason why we have cavity walls on buildings) oh dear i just got into the argument!
Hi, Wossie, no more silly buggers 
If your house has been built with no dpc, and a v. hard brick, it`s unusual.But there must have been some obscure reason why. The real problem here is that no-one , with the best intentions , can offer you any "concrete"help to solve your problem. This is cyber space . You`re just going to have to get a survey done by someone who is either going to get paid for it, or do it as a favour because they know you .
If your house has been built with no dpc, and a v. hard brick, it`s unusual.But there must have been some obscure reason why. The real problem here is that no-one , with the best intentions , can offer you any "concrete"help to solve your problem. This is cyber space . You`re just going to have to get a survey done by someone who is either going to get paid for it, or do it as a favour because they know you .Wise words from Nige F there. Nobody can diagnose your damp problem using only a keyboard and a monitor, but here are the questions that you should be asking the dp company.
1. What was the original damp problem that you diagnosed?
2. What was the remedy that you provided for that problem?
3. What other problems did you find during the course of carrying out work?
4. What other remedies did you provide?
5. If you expected a settling period, how long did you expect that period would last?
6. What length of guarantee did you provide for the work?
7. What were the terms of the guarantee?
8. Have you diagnosed the current problem?
9. If so, what is the remedy for that problem?
10. Why is that work not covered by your guarantee?
11. What's the name of your solicitor?
1. What was the original damp problem that you diagnosed?
2. What was the remedy that you provided for that problem?
3. What other problems did you find during the course of carrying out work?
4. What other remedies did you provide?
5. If you expected a settling period, how long did you expect that period would last?
6. What length of guarantee did you provide for the work?
7. What were the terms of the guarantee?
8. Have you diagnosed the current problem?
9. If so, what is the remedy for that problem?
10. Why is that work not covered by your guarantee?
11. What's the name of your solicitor?
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