Truss glide shoes for raised tie trusses

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Looking up information on the truss glide shoes used for when using raised tie trusses its saying it can be used on one side or both side of the trusses. HAs anyone any information on why it would only be used on one side. Ill be using these type trusses in my garage so would want to be certain that id be installing them correctly. I will have an opening on the side of my garage maybe 2.8m wide which will have 6inch thick concrete lintels.


Another question, how far can the raise tie be on a raised tie truss. My peak will be 5.4m of the ground and if i ever want a car lift to take a swb transit, where should the tie be. would i get away with a tie of 12.5ft


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Glide shoes one side or both I don't know, as for how far the raised tie can go will depend somewhat on the weight you will be loading on the roof and how much you want
to spend.
Slates for instance will be half the weight of tiles.
 
Glide shoes are fitted at each end of the truss.
Another question, how far can the raise tie be on a raised tie truss. My peak will be 5.4m of the ground and if i ever want a car lift to take a swb transit, where should the tie be. would i get away with a tie of 12.5ft
Raised tie trusses require specific design and the higher the tie beam the more unstable (they become leggy) the truss rafter becomes. You will need to confer with your truss manu'.

These beauties were craned on and had a 'stacked' rafter arrangement because of the span and the height of the tie. Note the glide shoes in the image.
 
Glide shoes are fitted at each end of the truss.

Raised tie trusses require specific design and the higher the tie beam the more unstable (they become leggy) the truss rafter becomes. You will need to confer with your truss manu'.

These beauties were craned on and had a 'stacked' rafter arrangement because of the span and the height of the tie. Note the glide shoes in the image.


TY. Excellent pics! Have you any others? Ive erected many a trusses but never the raised tie type. Why is it theres no bracing on the legs. Ive noticed this on lots of information ive seen plus the truss diagram from the truss manufacturers pricing ive received.

The peak will be 5.4 and thinking maybe 3.9m(13ft) for the raised tie so i can get a 2 post lift in for my car or work van for working under. This leaves 1.5m above the tie.

Did you use slide shoes on both sides of the trusses or just one?
 
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Glide shoes one side or both I don't know, as for how far the raised tie can go will depend somewhat on the weight you will be loading on the roof and how much you want
to spend.
Slates for instance will be half the weight of tiles.


it will be slates
 
4" x 1" bracing was used.

Bracing should continue all the way down to the wall plate. However, this is contentious with the slopey bit as it clashes with the plasterboard and the manu's recognise this. So, in mitigation they allow you to screw 9.5mm ply to the inside face of the slopey bit to counter the lack of bracing - which we did.

Glide shoes at both ends. I have loads more piccies but am too tired to upload tonight.
 
4" x 1" bracing was used.

Bracing should continue all the way down to the wall plate. However, this is contentious with the slopey bit as it clashes with the plasterboard and the manu's recognise this. So, in mitigation they allow you to screw 9.5mm ply to the inside face of the slopey bit to counter the lack of bracing - which we did.

Glide shoes at both ends. I have loads more piccies but am too tired to upload tonight.


ok, could you please upload tomorrow. TY

Yes i hear you, ply all over. The cheaper option would be to batten them out but structurally the ply would be stronger.

I will have only a concrete lintel with cavity closer block under my wallplate. Do you think id get away with screwing one wallplate strap into the lintel with 8mm thick long screws with plugs. The rest all over will be nailed in with masonry nails . Ill also be nailing through the wall plate into the concrete block cavity closers with express nails.
 
4" x 1" bracing was used.

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Apologies, looks like the horizontal bracing are 4x2s and the diagonal bracing is 4x1. Probably just the camera angle. Wire nails for your bracing and paslode nails for the battens or wire nails for both. Have worked on jobs that have done both methods.
 
Ply panels across the bottom of the rafters is normal as bracing for raised tie roof trusses. A general rule of thumb is the ties should not be more than one third of the way up ( 1/3 of height from wallplate to ridge ) but the truss manufacturer will need to design the trusses anyway.
 
Ply panels across the bottom of the rafters is normal as bracing for raised tie roof trusses. A general rule of thumb is the ties should not be more than one third of the way up ( 1/3 of height from wallplate to ridge ) but the truss manufacturer will need to design the trusses anyway.


By 1/3, if the overall height of my raise tie truss is 2.7m, then by the 1/3 rule then it shouldnt be more than 0.9m higher than the wall plate. If that is the case, my raised tie from the ground will be 3.8m which is 12.5ft.

If i raise my ridge height to 5.6m. 12block high is 2.7m. 100mm cavity closer plus 75m wallplate thickness is 2875mm.2 beds of mortar brings me to 2.9m leave a truss height of 2.7m. with the 1/3 rule, leaves the raised tie at 3.8m of the floor.
 
Sorry , you have lost me. How high do you want the ties to be above your floor level ?
 

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