It depends on the home, with my last home TRV's only up stairs, there job was to stop bedrooms getting too hot, simple mechanical worked fine.
Mother house with a modulating gas boiler, fitted electronic heads
I slowly reduced the lock shield valves until the current never exceeded the target, and they worked very well, however the new owners did not want the electronic valves so swapped back to mechanical and now with lock shields set they also worked well.
This house tried the same as mothers, and had to open up all lock shields fully, the eQ-3 does not show current only target, so can't set that way, one Energenie was broken by carpet fitters, replaced with Kasa and that one has option to work out time taken to heat up, would never work however as boiler starts at same time as TRV so if boiler not running clearly nothing can heat up.
This house still needs some thing doing to it, but going to fit new windows, so will wait and see how it works once they are replaced.
However since the three homes were so different, to give advice I now realise is not helpful without knowing all details, as with this house I got it wrong.
The point is a modulating boiler needs different controls to an non modulating, mother house had
this thermostat, it is rather expensive and clever, using a mark/space ratio to ensure the temperature does not over shoot, but the wrong selection with a modulating boiler as it defeats the modulating process. The less a condensing modulating boiler is switched off, the better, it allows the boilers software to work. But that thermostat would be ideal with my oil fired boiler which does not modulate.
I like the report from the Kasa (TP-Link) head,
this shows me how well the room is heating, as to if one needs the report is another question, my first house the central heating simply worked, all rooms got warm, only compliant was static build up, and trays of water in the air intake stopped that, it was expensive to run, but did not realise at the time as nothing to compare with, only real complaint was during the winter of discontent we had no heating when electric went off, so got rather cold. I vowed then never to have another house which relied on electric for heating.
Second house also had a gas fire, open plan, cheaper to run than the gas hot air with house before, but it worked, so did not really think about it.
Only with mothers old house and this one did I really start to look at central heating, in both cases the big change was having doors on internal rooms, first had vents in all doors for return air, and next was open plan, so doors was something new. Clearly with doors the single wall thermostat unless linked does very little, it turns heating on with a cold day, and off with a warm day, but does not control room temperatures. The TRV in the room with the wall thermostat is set lower than the wall thermostat so it does not turn off unless change in set temperature or a warm day. Better if linked to TRV's, but mothers house worked fine by just setting temperatures with around 2ºC lower on the TRV in the hall to the wall thermostat.
This house same idea did not work. One the hall cools too slowly, and two too much heat comes from the other rooms, so keeping hall cooler to rest of house does not work. Likely I will fit a second thermostat in living room, but the main point is what worked A1 in mothers house does not work with this one.
I have 5 standard mechanical TRV heads, 5 x eQ-3, 3 x Energenie, 1 x Kasa with a Nest Gen 3 in main house and mechanical in the flat under house, two pumps, two motorised valves, running on C Plan with an oil boiler. In hind sight should have used Drayton Wiser but hind sight is easy.
The electronic heads are M32 fitting, but have a kit of parts, so fit RA, RAV, and RAVL as well, the eQ-3 and Kasa auto works out the range required, and set them selves for the valve they are fitted to, the Energenie one needed to fit spaces etc to match valve, this is why when one was damaged went to another make.
