TRV's

  • Thread starter Thread starter Bodd
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Bodd

Would anyone know if some TRV's are directional.?


Do any manufactures advise they have to go on the Flow?

Bod
 
Some older TRV's are directional, most new ones can go either way.

Used to be rule of thumb that they went on the return where the water is cooler so less likely to cause early shut down. Often it's a case of fitting them in an easy position to reach and where they are exposed to the room temprature eg; not in a corner.

Directional ones will almost certainly have a direction marking on them somewhere.

Regards,
footprints
 
Fitted new Ornate should have looked at MI's
but thought as normally they would be either way.

But Customer called to tell me of this engine noise under floor.

I told him to loosen trv in bedroom and sure enough it stopped.

happened again today he then took it right of and again the noise stopped.
maybe faulty head.

Next Ill try swapping heads with another rad.
 
Fitted new Ornate
Is 'Ornate' a description or a Brand name?

If a description, which brand are they?

Did you balance the system?


honestly no.

It was a long day Old system was struggling. I took up landing floor and found whole system to be 15mm. Changed as much as I could to 15mm coming off 22mm.
I have to go back before this problem arrised so want to do a bit of research so its only one more trip.
Im in the process of elimination Thermostat is off the suspected valve at the moment and I've not heard from them so I think that may be the culprit.

Could balancing be the problem? all lock shields are fully open at the mo. Will balance when I go back.

Half the problem was that I could not Balance as these designer lock shields have Allen key adjustment and they were all leaking unless they were fully opened.

Bod
 
But they are an expensive Victorian style TRV and Lock shield set.
And the LS valve leaks! :roll:

There are no arrows
That's helpful! And you've thrown the MI's away? :(

Can you find out who actually makes the valves, so you can speak to them or the importers?

The noise, caused by the valve 'bouncing' as it tries to close, is due to too high a pressure difference across the valve.

Correct balancing will reduce the pressure difference.

Read How to balance a CH system
 
But they are an expensive Victorian style TRV and Lock shield set.
And the LS valve leaks! :roll:

There are no arrows
That's helpful! And you've thrown the MI's away? :(

Can you find out who actually makes the valves, so you can speak to them or the importers?

The noise, caused by the valve 'bouncing' as it tries to close, is due to too high a pressure difference across the valve.

Correct balancing will reduce the pressure difference.

Read How to balance a CH system



Old ones where leaking if I tried to Balance, so had to change for new. It was a long day so have to go back to balance. This has been an elimination process from beginning as Existing system has been done in 15mm copper or Plastic 15mm. very little 22mm involved.
 
So if we are talking balancing

I tend to fit Worcesters I aim to go for 20 degrees diffrence on the flow/ return on the boiler. But should I be looking for that on each indevidual radiator as well?


I Realize I should be doing this in combustion chamber but old habbits. I have just joined.
 
I tend to fit Worcesters I aim to go for 20 degrees difference on the flow/ return on the boiler. But should I be looking for that on each individual radiator as well?
Ideally, yes; but it depends on how the rads have been sized. Balancing for a 20C drop (75/55) will reduce the output by about 15%, which may not be significant if the rads are already 20% larger than required.

Incidentally, the flow rates at 20C are half that for a 10C difference, so pipe sizes can be smaller and pump speeds lower.

I Realize I should be doing this in combustion chamber
I don't think this can be classified as a 'gas-related question', so it can be discussed on an open forum. Tony (Agile) will soon put me right. :lol:
 

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