Turning an old church pew into an L-bench

[d000hg]

I'm keen to fit a bench in our kitchen, on the wall behind the dining table, to maximise seating. The idea of an old church pew is quite attractive and I have access to somewhere selling 13' pews for £120 each.

Our dining area is only about 8' x 5' so in theory, a 13' pew could be cut and turned into an L. However I haven't done this sort of thing before and my worry is making sure it's strong enough, since the main strength is in the thick, single plank forming the seat. I'd initially assumed I'd glue it but on second thoughts, that would make it impossible to ever take out and would mean it has to be built in situ, which won't go down well! So I think it would have to be bolted, so I can prepare it in the garage, take it apart, carry the two lengths of pew inside, then bolt tem back together again. I don't plan to attach the thing to the wall.

Can anyone offer any general advice, technical terms/techniques I should research, etc? I'm aware I don't really know what to search for online.

This is as much a fun project as something practical; I'm considering getting one more pew than I need so I have one to practice on (ruin). I might ask more experienced friends to help out as well.

Thanks for any insight.

 

[Burnerman]

Just something you'd maybe like to consider......
You know how angled joints are made on kitchen worktops? Effectively a bishops mitre, with biscuit jointing techniques and bolts underside that pull the mitre together?
Maybe you could apply some or all of that for your project, but it could be rather overkill!
John

 

[d000hg]

I'm hoping that one of the 'feet' of the existing pew could be moved to be directly underneath the joint, so all the weight is directly supported rather than the join itself having to support a lot of strain. If I don't/can't do that then I assume the joint will have to be pretty serious

Thanks.

 

[Burnerman]

You can reinforce the joint with a plate underside.....either steel or timber, keeping it back so the edge can't be seen? It will also help the joint edges from lifting a little, although biscuit jointing could be neater.
John

 

[big-all]

a picture or drawing off construction would be handy

 

[d000hg]

Of the original pew, you mean?

They look like this:

 

[big-all]

if you mitering you will be ok assuming central as the you will loose the middle 2.5- 3 ft
the distance from the back off the back rail to the front edge twice over

 

[d000hg]

I think the point it would be cut is roughly where the first leg is nearest the camera - obviously cutting at 45 degrees so ending up with a wedge-shaped piece of pew cut out...

 

[big-all]

if we assume 4x3" legs that leaves 3x 4ft sections so assuming you bench is 17" deep one leg will be 4ft 6" the other 5ft 10" ish

 

[Dave54]

Nice idea, but more complicated than it first appears. The back is angled, and so the back rail(s) will have to be slightly longer than the seat for the two to meet when the pieces are mitred. The back rail(s)will also need to have a compound angle, again because the back is angled.
Unless the existing bench is easily dismantled, it's all going to need to be done by hand as well, marked out with marking knife, saw cut on the "waste" side of the line, leaving enough to clean up with a sharp plane. I'd make a proper scale drawing of it, and take the angles and lengths off that myself.
Tricky job I'd say.

 

[d000hg]

I have looked at them in person and it appears it can be disassembled unless there's loads of glue that's not obvious - it's held together with screws and decent joints. I quite fancy putting one (not modified) in our upstairs room along the full length of the wall, but that would rely on it coming to pieces - it'll have to come through the window!

If it all goes wrong, simply shortening it to fir the width of the space wouldn't be too bad, and that wouldn't require fancy cuts. So at least I have a backup plan.

 

[chappers]

Nice idea, but more complicated than it first appears. The back is angled, and so the back rail(s) will have to be slightly longer than the seat for the two to meet when the pieces are mitred. The back rail(s)will also need to have a compound angle, again because the back is angled.
Unless the existing bench is easily dismantled, it's all going to need to be done by hand as well, marked out with marking knife, saw cut on the "waste" side of the line, leaving enough to clean up with a sharp plane. I'd make a proper scale drawing of it, and take the angles and lengths off that myself.
Tricky job I'd say.

I agree, marking this up to cut won't be easy, a laser might be the answer.
From the mid point on the lower back rail roughly transfer your 45 degree angle to the front edge of the seat, from this point accurately mark a 45 degree angle back along the seat top. set your laser up along this line and mark it off along all of the faces it hits, then repeat for the other side.
When transferring your rough lines from back to front, either ensure your bevel is set at a more acute angle than 45 degrees or that the starting points for each side a distance apart. Just make sure that when you set up your accurate bevels back from the front that they don't cross anywhere on the pew.