I planning to install UFH for my two story extension in both the GF and the FF. the total zones are 5 and I believe one manifold is more then enough. can the manifold be fitted on the GF to feed both the FF and the GF zones. the supplier is telling me they can not. I need one manifold per floor or if I use one then it must be on the FF due to the fact that the manifold must be higher than the highest point in the system (pipes) to prevent air getting into the system . I do not want the manifold to be in FF as this is our master bedroom and I do not want any noise. can the manifold be located on the FF?
Uder floor heating - one manifold for both GF and FF
- Thread starter Zehroni
- Start date
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Guessing that was just a TYPO , you need two manifolds if you want separate control, if you want to use just one manifold (not advised) it will have to be at the highest point of the system
yes it is a typo, I meant to say the manifold must be located on the GF. since the manifold has Automatic air vent, why it can't be located in the GF to feed both the GF and FF in the same way as the boiler. our boiler is located in the kitchen (GF) but we have radiators on both floors.
Your radiators have bleed valves at the top; the UFH loops don’t.
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Air travels up, not down. If the loops are higher than the manifold, the air will be trapped in them, and the flow rate on UFH is very low (around 1-2 litres per minute) so it won't push through.
Can the manifold not go in the back of a wardrobe or similar?
You can run off of one manifold, that's what actuator heads are for. You can put a manifold below the highest point of the system but not a whole floor lower. When fitting the circuits, all air should be purged & left at 10 bar so as not risk screed cracking (or compressed pipework) Any circuit (pipes) should never be longer than 100 metres.
how can the pressure be kept at 10 bar.? the water mains could only fetch 1.7-2.5 bar at the very most. is there any equipment I can use to achieve this as I am trying to do all the pipe work, the screed and hire a gas engineer to replace the boiler and commission the system.
A pressure test pump is required to get it up to full pressure. You might be able to hire one
Muggles is right. Once the air is out of all circuits (fill each individually with a hose), link the circuits, connect to test pump. Pump to 10 bar (only takes a few seconds) & valve off pipework leaving at 10bar. Important, do not go longer than 100 m per circuit & try for 100/120mm distance between pipes. (no more, if possible) Approx 10 sqm per circuit is the norm.
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