un even floor

[newdiy]

I have hard wood floor board (tongue-grooved) fixed to joists, which are secured into I-shape steel beam on one end and into a wall on the other.

The floor board is parallel to the beam and extends over I-shape beam from joist. In theory, the I-shape steel beam and the joists should be level on the top edge. however, floor over joists have 5mm lower than floor over I-shape beam so my flood is not even in the nearby of the steel beam. I would like to know what I can do to bring the floor over the beam to the same level as those over the joist . Many thanks for any help you may offer.

 

[salem2000]

the easiest way is to have the offending floor boards plained to the correct thickness required.

The excess should be removed from the underside of the board. If you can borrow or hire a thicknesser would take no time at all.

Just make sure ALL nails/screws have been removed.

 

[masona]

Would a floor belt sander take off 5mm ? I never use one.

 

[salem2000]

It would do, if you got the time. Could use electric plainer, but a bit hit and miss.

 

[newdiy]

thanks a lot for all your replies.

part of the offending board is underneath a partition/stud wall, so lifting the whole lenght of the board may be a bit tricky. Perhaps I can sand it off from top if not from underside.

the offending board has a shape of below:

____/--\____

there are slopes in both sides of the steel beam.

 

[masona]

I mis-read your post,the problem was that your floor joists wasn't rebated at the top to the same level as your steel beam,the only thing you can do as salem2000 post or rebate the floorboards.

 

[newdiy]

Hello again, the offending board is shown in the diagram below (not to scale). Do you think if it is OK to just sand off the offending board and leave the one underneath the parition wall as is. Many thanks.

 

[salem2000]

That would be OK. If you can remove the board, so much the better. your local Timber yard may be able to help as well. If they cant rebate the board they may put it through a thicknesser. All you would do in the latter case is use fillets to support the thinner board from the joists. I would prefer rebateing which can easily be done with a router.

But if you can get an electric plane that will go right to the edge of the skirting, then I would give that a go as well.

You may be able to hire one. A word of warning though. Make sure any nails are punched down and/or screws removed and never take too much off at one time.

Let us know how you get on.

 

[masona]

Just has another thought,
You could take off the last 3 or 4 floorboards up and make a thin firring (wedge) on each joists from the thickness of your beam and back to nothing then replace the flooring,you might not even noticed.

 

[newdiy]

A quick note to say thank you all for your suggestions. Following your advices, I have completed preparing the floor to lay laminate floors thouhg it has taken such a long time.

 

[salem2000]

A quick note to say thank you all for your suggestions. Following your advices, I have completed preparing the floor to lay laminate floors thouhg it has taken such a long time.

Glad to hear it, how did it go in the end

 

[newdiy]

Hi Salem200, I lifted the offending board across the room, used a router to rebate the underside of the floor board since I could not find a thicknesser locally. Also replaced the skirting board around the room.

 

[salem2000]

Good Call, hope the results were worth the work. It pays to take time to do a job, rather than make do.