Under Stairs Cupboard Doors Pine Material Choice?

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Hello, I am looking to make up some cupboard doors to fit under the stairs
the height is about 1900mm and width is about 1450mm (725mm per door) with an angled edge at the top.

The look I am after is a pine fronted finished door about 30mm thick.

I have looked buyig furniture boards but the cost is prohibitve.
I dont want to use mdf and paint as pine will be in keeping with the decor.

I am thinking about using floorboards edge glued and batton on the back (18mm board + 12mm wood)
or pine cladding with a strengthening batton and ply on the back (8mm cladding +12mm wood + 9mm ply)


If I was to go for the cladding option would it be best to size up the ply fit battons and cladding last to keep cladding flat and straight or start by glueing up cladding then battons then ply?

Any advice would be appriciated as I have not made up doors before, I have done a fair bit of carpentry shelves ect and have medium skills.

Thanks
 
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Hello and thanks for the suggestion. I Have looked into pine veneered mdf and plywood.

I am planning to use 3 inch butt hinges on the doors as I have them,
I would like the door to have a 'regular door' thickness.

I know mdf/ply would be easier but it wont be cheaper than the cladding and some battons and ply.

The price I got was from a timber merchants near me for 9mm thick.

Any tips on construction order would be apprieciated.

Thanks.
 
Hi Powercore,

This sounds like an interesting project.

I think what you have suggested would work quite well, my only concern is that the doors could be quite heavy (30mm thick) so you need good secure fixings to the door and to the cupboard frame.

The way I would tackle it is to create a frame from pine which is thick enough to take your hinges and also will give the door a nice border. I would then infill with the pine floorboards, using the baton method on the back. This would take more time but I think it would some detail to the door.

I hope this is helpful.

Regards,

Adrian
 
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Hello Adrian, Thanks for your suggestion of frame and infill. This is a great idea.
Even if I don't make a full frame I think something on the top of the angled edge will be good, to hide the end grain.

I am thinking now about using the cladding but reversing it, so the face thats meant to be on the back (without the v groove) is on the front.
and the 'boards' fully fit together with no gaps.

This should give the appearance of solid pine? haven't fully looked into it yet
by actually having a look at some timber, just thinking about how tho go about the job.

Cheers

Martin
 

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