Underfloor heating not getting hot

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Hello everyone, wonder if anyone here can advise. Long story short, my underfloor heating is not getting warm enough.

It’s a wet system in my kitchen only. The rest of the house has radiators. The flow pipe from the boiler splits off to feed the UFH and the radiators/hot water cylinder.

The temperature gauge on the flow side of the UFH manifold (top left of photo. after the pump) rarely gets above 40 degrees, irrespective of what the mixer is turned to. Often it is lower, around 30 degrees even with the boiler firing. Water appears to be flowing through the tubes, as the flow gauge shows water flowing when the UFH thermostat is calling for heat and not when it isn’t.

The boiler flow pipe (bottom pipe going head on into mixer in photo) gets warm when the boiler fires up, but often the side of the T junction feeding the rest of the house gets very hot but the side feeding the UFH only gets lukewarm. (There is a circulating pump near the hot water cylinder upstairs which is constantly on, irrespective of whether CH/HW/UFH is on or not.. a separate issue I think).

Anyhow, the above (I.e. pump working, flow gauge flowing) makes me think perhaps the mixer is at fault. The temperature doesn’t really change irrespective of how far I turn it in either direction. Note that sometimes the return pipe after the mixer gets very hot, but I think this might just be because it joins the return from the rest of the house after a foot of pipe.

Could it be that the mixer is causing this issue where (hot) water doesn’t seem to be getting drawn into the UFH manifold properly?

I’ve had a plumber advise one of two things. Either a power flush of the UFH system: there is indeed a fair amount of magnetite in the water if we draw off some from the valves on the manifold.. could this just be clogging up the mixer and causing this issue where it appears water is circulating round (according to the flow gauge) but not actually allowing any “fresh” hot water from the boiler in?

The second suggestion was to just replace the whole manifold, including the mixer. I already tried ordering a new Reliance mixer but the connection for the pump at the top of the valve is at a sloped angle and the current, unbranded mixer it is flat, so it’s not possible to simply swap out the mixer valve and use the existing pump and manifold. So I will need (I think) to buy a complete manifold set and ask a plumber to fit it.

Any advice gratefully received.. a power flush seems quite expensive, certainly not much cheaper than a new manifold set and the plumbers time to fit it (it’s a 3 loop manifold I have but only 2 loops are in use - and both on a single “zone”).

I have attached a photo of the manifold in case it’s of any use. Happy to answer any questions if anyone can help shed some light on how to get the kitchen warm in time for Xmas! Thanks again.
 

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Hi crossthread, thanks for your speedy reply. It has been better in the past yes. Never 100% since I bought the house but it used to get upto around 60deg from memory.

Is there any mileage in trying a power flush first - could that dislodge some gunk in the mixer etc? Or should I just replace the mixer(+manifold) straight from the get-go since the cost of a power flush is not insignificant and probably not dissimilar to a new manifold and fitting?
 
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The flow and return may be wrong way round since installation.
Thanks. Flow from boiler is going in at the bottom, return is coming out the left hand side. Can’t see a brand on the mixer, so not sure what is meant to be connected where unfortunately. But the pump has an arrow pointing up at least?
 
If the "cold", left hand side has a isol valve close it, close the manifold cold return on the manifold, ensure UFH OFF and CH on and up to normal running temperature, then open the drain/filling valve under the air vent on the end of the top manifold, the water should run very hot after draining off ~ 5L or so, you may have to top up the expansion vessel at the boiler while doing this.
 
If the "cold", left hand side has a isol valve close it, close the manifold cold return on the manifold, ensure UFH OFF and CH on and up to normal running temperature, then open the drain/filling valve under the air vent on the end of the top manifold, the water should run very hot after draining off ~ 5L or so, you may have to top up the expansion vessel at the boiler while doing this.
Thanks John. Is this to diagnose a problem or might it fix things? I’ll try this later since all it will require is a bucket!
 

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