Understanding my leccy setup in kitchen

[m0bov]

Hi all, I'm a network tech and my Dad is a retired electrical fitter so a bit out of date. I have a sparky I can ask but wanted some comments first.

Ok, my (new to me) 70s build flat had a periodic inspection as part of my purchase. It needed a new fuse board and RCD as it had a power shower fitted and had not been updated. I have the report, it shows 6mm cable for a "Cooker" circuit and 32amp fuse. Should this be 45Amp?

There is a circuit for the kitchen sockets which also seems to do the living room sockets!

The hob is running from a cooker switch above the hob.

The oven (single), washing machine (when i get one!) are all running from a couple of doubles UNDER the sink (!). I am replacing the hob and oven, the oven is going to be a 16Amp rated hard wired model (Bosh).

I want a pukka setup, so what do I need to do and what does my sparky need to do under Part P?? Is there anything my Dad can do? Should we blank of the hob switch and put a switch in elsewhere or can we run a feed from the existing hob switch to the cooker?

To comply with Park P, should he issue a certificate cos he put in an extractor fan in the kitchen and bathroom and I did'nt even get a receipt? He said the work was to spec and is covered under my inspection report.

Any suggestions on what I should get done?

Thanks.

 

[riveralt]

Ok, my (new to me) 70s build flat had a periodic inspection as part of my purchase. It needed a new fuse board and RCD as it had a power shower fitted and had not been updated. I have the report, it shows 6mm cable for a "Cooker" circuit and 32amp fuse. Should this be 45Amp?

No 32Amp MCB is more than sufficient for most ovens and hobs. The cable size and MCB is determined by the kw rating of the appliance(s).

There is a circuit for the kitchen sockets which also seems to do the living room sockets!

For rewires I would always fit a separate kitchen socket circuit but most houses seem to get by on one or two ring final circuits.

The hob is running from a cooker switch above the hob.
The oven (single), washing machine (when i get one!) are all running from a couple of doubles UNDER the sink (!). I am replacing the hob and oven, the oven is going to be a 16Amp rated hard wired model (Bosh).

Depending on the kw rating of the oven you would probably be better running it and the hob from the same cooker circuit.

I want a pukka setup, so what do I need to do and what does my sparky need to do under Part P?? Is there anything my Dad can do? Should we blank of the hob switch and put a switch in elsewhere or can we run a feed from the existing hob switch to the cooker?

You need to speak to electrician about that because he is the one who needs to design the circuit, install and test and issue the necessary documentation at the end of the day.

To comply with Park P, should he issue a certificate cos he put in an extractor fan in the kitchen and bathroom and I did'nt even get a receipt? He said the work was to spec and is covered under my inspection report.

You should at the very least have got a Minor Works Certificate and the bathroom work would have been notifiable to your Local Authority Building Control.

 

[m0bov]

Thanks, my Dad wants to know if its possible to run the single 16Amp oven AND the new hob from the cooker switch? He has not wired in seperate hob and oven before.

 

[riveralt]

Thanks, my Dad wants to know if its possible to run the single 16Amp oven AND the new hob from the cooker switch? He has not wired in seperate hob and oven before.

You could but the best way is to run 6mm T&E cable from the cooker switch to this dual cooker connection unit:
http://www.alertelectrical.com/prod/1022/click-45a-easyfit-dual-appliance-outlet-plate
Then connect your appliances to it.

 

[Chri5]

Thanks, my Dad wants to know if its possible to run the single 16Amp oven AND the new hob from the cooker switch? He has not wired in seperate hob and oven before.

Tell your dad to look at this and design the circuit for you

http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Book/6.2.1.htm


There is absolutely nothing wrong with bringing in a electrician and agreeing to do some donkey work, chasing, back boxes, route making and even cable runs. All subject to him being confident that you are up to the work and you confident that he is a good guy.
Expect some inspection costs, and after that he 2nd fixes, tests and certifies.

With respect your dad may have been great at his job, but the rule book, the regulations, design, and the modern today user needs have changed. His knowledge will be useful, but he can't sign the work off.

Find someone that can, and if your lucky you find someone that hates lifting floorboards, chasing walls, pulling and fixing cables, making good and just wants to do the tasty parts of the job for a fair price v effort.