Upgrade transformer for dimmable low voltage wires system

[ellesters]

Hi there, hope you can help.

I have one of those Ikea wires lighting systems in the kitchen (think it is the Termosfar one originally) and have already replaced the transformer once. My fault as I didn't realise the limits on the bulb wattage size and overloaded it.

As there is a problem with the replacement transformer - scavanged from a different Ikea lighting set and probably not entirely compatible - I am considering replacing this with one which I can use with a dimmer switch.

What do I need to look for? Both in terms of the transformer and the dimmer switch? There are currently 3 x 20w lamps on the wire system. If I can get a transformer which can cope with dimming I will want to add one, poss two more 20w lamps.

Thanks in advance for any assistance.

Regards,


Lori

 

[ban-all-sheds]

1) Look for a transformer which will cope with the minimum and maximum load you'll ever want.

2) Make sure it is dimmable, and find out if it needs phase-cut (aka trailing edge) or phase-delay (aka leading edge) dimming.

3) Look for a dimmer switch which can cope with ELV lighting transformers, make sure it will cope with your load and make sure it does the right type of dimming.

4) Apply to your local council for Building Regulations approval, as you've turned your lighting system into a Special Installation by cobbling it together from separate parts.

 

[ericmark]

Quartz Halogen lamps should not be dimmed. The way they work is the tungsten from the filament is reflected from the white hot quartz envelope and so is re-deposited onto the filament. Running cool will stop this process and the quartz will go black and the bulb will fail prematurely.

There are LED versions that can be dimmed but the power supply is not a simple transformer but an inverter which corrects the voltage fluctuations in the mains so again any dimmer is defeating its built in feature to extend bulb life.

However some power supplies (inverters) can be dimmed but you have leading and lagging dimmer switches and these need to be matched to the inverter so should be the same make.

With the EU wanting to remove all tungsten bulbs from sale I would advise to use something that will take the energy saving bulbs at a latter date. Moving from extra low voltage (12v) to low voltage (230v) with the GU10 bulbs will allow the use of cold cathode (florescent) lamps which are far brighter than LED lamps and are available in dimming versions which will work with a standard switch.

I have found Ikea although cheap do sell some rubbish even seen those daft plastic bits that defeat the shutters in out 13A plugs which they claim make them safer but in fact do reverse. So one does need to be very careful what one buys.

Also be careful to use right fuses with their lamps as they are not included in lamp as they should be and when their lamps blow they can weld themselves into the lamp holder. As I found out to my cost.

 

[ericmark]

Sorry missed it was in kitchen so needs Part P notifying. At £100 plus you need to pay council to DIY cheaper to get an electrician to do the work who is registered.

I hate dimming units as even when matched you can get flicker and only cure is often to change bulb make. They are a real pain.

 

[Steve]

I have one of those Ikea wires lighting systems in the kitchen

Ah, it this the one with the big black toroidal transformer? If so, keep this. But remove all the gubbins, you should just have an empty black box with two wires in it. You can insert a nice new electronic transformer into this! Job done.








ERIC MARK why do you think compact fluorescent lamps are cold cathode? The two technologies, while related, are totally different.










*typed large because I have asked this before with no response.

 

[333rocky333]

Wire systems tend to prefer toroidal transformers over electronic ones,
Do not know why, but one reason Afaik is the gap between the two output wires and the length.

Get a better quality toroidal and use a Transformer/inductive dimmer.

 

[FourFootMedia]

So... uh, maybe I'm missing something here... you have 60w of lamps, you want to add another 40w of lamps and then dim them to (psobably) a similar output of your original 60w of lamps... seems a bit counterintuitive to me...

 

[ellesters]

Dear all,

Thanks for your replies! I didn't realise that changing a transformer would make such a difference as far as building regs were concerned! Sounds like I would be better off purchasing a replacement set from Ebay until such time as I can afford to get a pro in to wire in a better system. But as the whole flat needs a rewire that won't be for some time. Sigh.

BTW: Four Foot Media - it's not as counter-intuitive as it sounds. I would like brighter more direct light on the worktops for cooking which I can then dim for dining. As it is now I have a crappy compromise where I have angled the lights to fall obliquely on the work surface so they don't shine directly in anyone's eyes sitting at the table.

all best,

Lori

 

[ban-all-sheds]

What you have now, I'm afraid, is a crappy lighting design - that type of light is for picking out individual features - they originated as display lighting.

They are utterly useless for actually lighting up a room.