UPVC Eurocell Sashes

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House is <10 years old, so cavity wall, well insulated roof/flooring with ufh, mvhr system

Road is very loud & busy (more than I had envisaged)

Houses are new but traditional looking, I think the reason the previous owner went for sashes..

Eurocell sash windows; When I put my hands around the sides/draught seals I can feel some cold air. Not massively but definitely something.

Windows are quite heavy to slide up, some are stiff

Noise is the main problem I have especially in the front bedrooms.

Eurocell claim a u-value of 1.3? Not sure if this is glazing or whole unit.

My questions are:

1. can I do anything to improve what’s in situ?

2. Would there be *much* difference in noise & air if replaced for casements? Or would I still have issues beings on a busy road particularly?

3. Comments if anyone is familiar with Eurocell Sashes

8 sashes + 2 bays I Imagine won’t be cheap
 
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Re the cold air , read the thread Brrr that's currently going . Your cold air is probably due to convection.
Noise : casements won't change a noisy road I'm afraid. Is it definitely the windows, or being ' carried ' in from elsewhere? (check trickle vents are closed ,help maybe stuff some toilet tissue or similar in them to see if it makes a difference) . Maybe secondary glazing , it'll help depending on the ' frequency ' of the noise, you could use acoustic glass , but again it's all about the frequency. ( A cheap tester would be to get s sheet of clear plate poly and stand it in front of the current window, our secondary glazing supplier quotes 120mm away from the main frame if possible for ideal sound insulation
U-value is normally the whole window ..frame and glass together

Eurocell profile is one of the newer profiles and is supposed to be fairly good...but it could also be that the windows aren't fitted very well , maybe with gaps around in places
 
Noise comes through trickle vents -unscrew themnand stuff some cloth in and see if it makes a difference -if it does, block them up with foam.

Higher frequencies come through gaps, so if theres any adjustment see if that helps -Im not sure if draught seal compression can be adjusted on vertical sliders.

Low frequencies are difficult to stop -put your fingers on the glass and feel for vibration. And put your ear to the glass to see if you can hear the road noise.

Changing the glass might help, but acoustic glass is expensive and not a magic solution. I dont know if changing the glass for dg units with clear 6.3 laminate might improve over 4mm. Ive done that for clients as a halfway house between standard 4mm float and acoustic -it makes a bit of difference.

Id be tempted to:
1 see if the seal compression can be improved - sometimes with sliders, there can be gaps at the ends of the draught seal on the meeting rail. Also check the locking fasteners are pulling tight.

2 Id block trickle vents

3 take off trims and check window frames ard fully sealed -its possible to get acoustic foam.

4 get price for SGG Stadip silence double glazed units -maybe get bedrooms done first.

If your house is timber frame you might be getting noise through the walls.
 
Hi. Thanks for the replies. There’s no trickle vents on any windows or doors (as mvhr system)

when I put my ear to the glass it is considerably noisier, can definitely hear the road 10 fold.

See what you mean about convection. But of the 3 casements there are, theres absolutely no feel of air.

but don’t want the expensive of changing all to casement if it won’t make much difference?

Have checked all around. They are all sealed, no gaps.

leads me to think it’s the glass or units as opposed to fitting?
 
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but don’t want the expensive of changing all to casement if it won’t make much difference?

Have checked all around. They are all sealed, no gaps

There is no advantage of changing to casement windows -the only possible benefit would be if the draught seals were leaky.

Are the sliding sashes quite big? - 4mm float glass is a bit wobbly in big windows and would allow more noise through.
 
They are about 1100 x 1200.

I’m not sure what glazing is in them (I just know double glazing)

the traffic noise is much quieter near the casements? And no air whatsoever.

Sashes are well sealed. The ‘air’ seems to be coming up through the side rails (the area where the window needs to slide up & down)?
 
I’m dubious about approaching window suppliers as I guess they will try to sell me new products. These a only a few years old & barely opened. Some of them have never been opened!

They are quite heavy & stiff to lift. Again, not sure if that is the nature of the beast or?

The existing casements seem much more draught proof & quieter. I guess because of a good tight seal?

what do you recommend when living on a very busy road?
 

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