Urgent roof advice needed

I can't see how that corner is going to work. :confused:

Perhaps to drop a hip down to each point where the curve changes direction, and then infill between these - but this may involve either a wider soffit overhang or deeper fascia around the curved section

Won't the tile courses be out of kilter with the differing travel on the stunted hip rafters - i.e. a gauge anomaly?
 
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Maybe the curved section could be clad in sheet metal - nice feature - not lead :!: and lighter than tiles with all those strange cuts to them , over bent battons :idea:
 
The only way i see it working is if the curve of the wall plate mimmics the path of the bottom birdsmouth of the common rafter - i.e. using the ridge/hip junction as the compass point and swinging one of those commons around so that the bottom b/m lands on the plate and at the correct pitch.

But this would still have problems up at the ridge where all the timbers meet. You would need to create a sub ridge slightly lower down and wide enough to accommodate all the timbers converging.

altrnatively you could still pitch a standard hip but the wall plate would need to be raised in order to pick it up at the correct pitch, in fact the wall plate would have to curve up then back down. Plus you will end up with a large deep soffit over the window.

:confused: :?: :confused:
 
If it was me, I would put in bigger joists in ready for any loft conversion in the future, (a small study room?) then you can re-structure the roof, easier to do it now rather than later, slightly more money though
 
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Gasman, I write this for the benefit of both yourself and Nose.
Now Nose thinks I am a cantankerous old bu**er, and if I had sat here and said that I had helped an old chippy frame a radius on a hip roof 50 some odd years ago, he would not have believed me.
In my last post, I only said some one was going to have fun and games framing last section in, well they will, but believe me it can be done.
I had just finished national service when I worked with this old fellow, and was only humping baulks up for him, but now, after thinking about it, I can just about remember how it was done.
If I had not done one, I would be thinking exactly the same way as Nose is and would say it can not be done, due to the planes and reducing hip.
It will take me a while to write it up Gasman, but if your chippies are stuck, will be only to pleased to tell them how to frame it.
To prove my point go to
www.house-martin.com/ext_radius_gutters.php
Right hand top corner is photo of what you are doing. Blow it up will give you more detail. You will also be able to get your radius gutters from these people.
Can also tell you a lot more wrinkles in regard to facia, battens and the carpet. Offer is open.
The ancients come in handy at times.
oldun
 
If I had not done one, I would be thinking exactly the same way as Nose is and would say it can not be done, due to the planes and reducing hip.

I know it can be done, the point is, does the o.p.?

I feel that a curved end will need to be ringed round with full commons and that they will all need to converge at a set point at the top and on a specific curved wall plate at the bottom - with the wall plate following a compass point from the ridge/hip junction.
 
Thanks for all of your advice. The least i can do is update you

The carpenters plan to have it all completed by the end of the week , minus tiles of course.


The collars are now being fitted across the width on top of the ceiling joists. A F**k up of the carpenters as if they hadnt rammed ahead on this direction of the joists i wouldnt need seperate collars.

They were going to noggin the ceiling joists together to form joists but the arc said thats not good enough. I wish hed told them that when they first spoke with him!!!.

Anyway , my ceilng height in the lost will be reduced and its cost me another 300 in timber.

As for the curve , theyre cracking on and ill send you a photo when theyve done it.

Control are round today on my request.
 

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