Using OSB on studwork instead of plasterboard

[dave_104]

Hi

I’m rebuilding my kitchen and have to insulate the outer brick walls so I’ve put up stud walls with celotex between the stud timberwork. But I’m undecided what to put over the studwork on the inside face. OK so it doesn’t need to look pretty beneath the kitchen base units, but I’d rather not leave the insulation exposed so I’m thinking of cladding the studwork from floor to ceiling with 9mm OSB. Then hardibacker board (or similar) above the worktops for tiling, and plasterboard above that - both sitting on the OSB. Additional advantage would be if the OSB is well fixed then I don't need to worry too much about noggin positions as I could use umbrella type fixings for the cabinets.
Building control need to do a 1st fix inspection, so I’m wanting to get things right. Does what I plan seem alright and normal, or any other suggestions please? I appreciate I could just OSB the lower section but I’d rather spend a few ££ more and bulk up the walls to make them less flexi. Should I consider ply instead? Any help or advice is welcomed

 

[simplesteve]

I can't comment too much on the choice of wood ' down below ', but as a tiler......

Using Hardibacker as your substrate for tiling is in theory a good idea, as tiles love it and it's great to tile onto. In practice, there are a few things to be aware of :- whilst it's easy to cut by ' score n snap' it's not very easy to cut blind holes into. You're going to want to cut loads of holes for sockets into it. It's also quite heavy, and will require more noggins on the wall to take the weight and screw fixings. As the plasterboard above this will prob be 12mm, then to avoid any 'steps' anywhere you would need to use 12mm Hardie. This is VERY heavy ( and expensive). For ease of painting and plaster finishing, you'll also have to ' pre design' exactly where the tiles will go and finish, bang on.

tbh, I can't see any benefits to using hardie in this instance ( it's great stuff, and I love it, just not for this job), and I would just Pplate everywhere above worktop.

 

[dave_104]

Cheers Steve, maybe I'll use a thinner cement board as backer in that case as there's the depth of the backer + the tiles + adhesive to consider. Studs are 300mm apart so I'm sure that'll be fine. The wife *always* chooses the wobbly edged antique underground brick type of tiles - which makes mounting straight edged electrical gear even harder!!!

 

[robinbanks]

Simpler to use plasterboard (12mm) everywhere except for where you will mount wall units; putting ply (12mm) where they go will mean you can screw the unit mounts straight to it

 

[jono_h]

I think you’re going to want something thicker than 9mm if your relying on that, rather than noggins, to hold the wall cabinets up.

 

[mrrusty]

With PB being cheaper than OSB what's the point? Ply pattresses where the cabs go as usual

 

[cdbe]

I'd use 25mm PIR bonded plasterboard otherwise you'll have cold bridging through your studwork. You can hang the cabinets using rails.

 

[Deluks]

If be inclined to use 12mm ply behind everything.
The rails idea is sound, they're so much better than the little brackets you get with cabinets.
Make up a horizontal batten with the stud centres marked on it, before you over board, then you'll know exactly where to put the fixings.

 

[Ivor Windybottom]

I doubt that ply would give a similar fire resistance to plasterboard. Check the regulations if you're doing anything unconventional such as this.