vaillant ecoTEC plus 428 s.53 code

[jrt]

Can anyone please help?

I have two possible issues

1. I installed with my father in law (Corgi REG) a Vaillant open vent bolier to replace my 20 year old gloworm spacesaver.
The electric valves,cylinder stat,room stat,pump were all wired up to a junction box(under daughters bedroom laminate ) which was linked to the clock.
The Gloworm had a L/N/E going into it from this junction box and everything worked ok.
The L/N/E was put into the mains supply connection and the pump was wired into the pump connection leaving in link 3/4.(Is this ok?)

2. The boiler fired up ok and ran up to temperature but it seems to not run for long before i get s.53 Appliance is within the waitng period of the operation block function due to water shortage.
I have the boiler set to max 75 and my thermostat set to max and all the rads bar one on TRV's.
I have tried changing D.0 from 30 to 24 and balancing the system but it still wont work for long.

Has anyone any ideas

Any help will be much appeciated
Thanks

jay

 

[mickyg]

The electric valves,cylinder stat,room stat,pump were all wired up to a junction box(under daughters bedroom laminate )

nice and accessible then good work

The L/N/E was put into the mains supply connection and the pump was wired into the pump connection leaving in link 3/4.(Is this ok?)

no its not ok, and by asking the question you obviously know that. it should have a permanent and a switch live. Try reading the instructions.

1. I installed with my father in law (Corgi REG)

what does he think the problem is?

S53 is usually caused by poor circulation or maybe you connected the flow and returns the wrong way round ?

 

[jrt]

nice and accessible then good work

To be fair i did not install the boiler originally so i would not have put the pump and wiring under the floor.It is the click stuff so i can get to it if needs be.
If i need to change the configuration i can take it up if thats the way forward.I just wanted to paint the picture that i could not easily check.

no its not ok, and by asking the question you obviously know that. it should have a permanent and a switch live. Try reading the instructions.

To be honest i have and it gives you different options.It does have a permanent live.I am just confused about control for the boiler whether this is a cause etc

what does he think the problem is?

S53 is usually caused by poor circulation or maybe you connected the flow and returns the wrong way round ?

The flow and return are correct the only thing that may be an issue is due to the location it is in we used elbows off the boiler flow and return.

Thanks for your reply i am sorry i seem to have annoyed you a little i did not mean too

 

[mickyg]

sorry I didn't mean to be so blunt, but from the way you posted it seemed like you had taken short cuts.
I don't see how your boiler is getting a demand if you have a permanent live to your boiler. So when you turn off the heating&water does the display stay on the screen?
Elbows off the top of the boiler shouldn't make any difference. Have you altered any pipework from the original layout? How many rads do you have, is it sealed or open vented system?
When the boiler is running go into the D codes, then check D40 and D41, and see what they read. Check it a few times as its heating up and let us know the figures

Micky

 

[jrt]

Cheers for the help
I seem to be making a mess of trying to explain myself in the post i will try and be clearer if i can sorry

The old feed to the original boiler L/N/E is the one i used so this does turn the display off to the new boiler when the clock switches off.The live i meant when in demand.

Its an open vented system and i have 10 radiators which have not had any pipework altered.

The boiler does run once the s.53 code has gone after a few restarts and carries on all night.
D40 is reading 66
D41 is reading 43

many thanks

 

[mickyg]

your boiler is to big for 10 rads, and your flow and return temps are a little to far apart(23c)
Reduce D0 to 15 and see how that goes. If you still get problems you may have a circulation problem.

 

[scoobydo123]

I had the same problem and was cured by reducing the output of the boiler. Was set to factory max but have since calculated the required setting for all the rads plus 3KW for the HW cylinder Megaflo cl145. A figure of 15 was the final setting. Also I have read that some have had the sensors incorrectly installed on the radius of the bends within the cylinder (perhaps mickyg could confirm as he seems knowledgeable. Mine now runs up to the target temp then throttles back to very low gas usage.

Cheers

 

[mickyg]

Also I have read that some have had the sensors incorrectly installed on the radius of the bends

I have heard this also, but never come across it. I don't think its very common.

 

[jackthom]

jrt, assuming you have a 3-speed pump you haven't mentioned whether it is set to max speed. The heat exchanger in the 20 year old boiler will have allowed much easier circulation. The new one will need a bit more push!

 

[jrt]

jrt, assuming you have a 3-speed pump you haven't mentioned whether it is set to max speed. The heat exchanger in the 20 year old boiler will have allowed much easier circulation. The new one will need a bit more push!

Pump is set to max 3

Reduce D0 to 15 and see how that goes. If you still get problems you may have a circulation problem.

Reduced D0 to 15 and left it on all night still had heating in the morning

Came home today from work and it is showing s.53 again
It looks like i may have to give the system another flush maybe

Can someone explain how the pump over run should work as i have wired the pump direct to the boiler?Does the boiler circuit control this?

many thanks for the help gents

 

[mickyg]

the pump overun will not work as you don not have seperate permanent and switched lives, as soon as the demand goes off so will the pump. You need your switched live into No.4 and the permanent live into the L terminal.
When its wired correctly, the pump will run constantly during a demand, and after the demand the pump will continue for a factory set 5mins. This is the setting in D1

 

[jrt]

Cheers

I can change the boiler wiring so i have a permanent L/N/E .I then am left with the switched L/N/E from the upstairs junction box.If i put the switched live into No4 do i put the N into No5?

Sorry to be a pain but the instuctions show different options and i seem to be somewhere in between

I would love to get the father in law back but he went on holiday the next day for a fortnight

I am also at the moment running one radiator at a time for an hour to give them a blast through and not had any s.53 yet

I bought 2 more radiators today for the downstairs loo and en suite but thought 12 rads instead of 10 would help a bit.
Ill get the father in law to help out when he returns he would not want his grand children getting cold would he

 

[jackthom]

The switched supply only needs to provide a live feed for demand to No.4.

No.5 is a neutral but is provided as an output for connecting up a 3-wire room thermostat.

I suppose you could anchor the "switched" neutral there but it isn't required for operation of the boiler.

 

[bigbow]

System should be powerflushed out when installing the new boilers as your probablly going from a cast iron to a stainless stell with narrow water ways. ensure that the cold feed is clear from the f&e and that the circulation is ok. ( would recommend a magnaclean filter on the return pipe to prevent sludge build up in the heat exchanger) Also how old was the original boiler? have you checked working pressure of the gas meter to prove that the meter govenor is ok??