Vaillant Ecotec plus 831 - swapped diverter valve, now no CH

[Agile]

I am glad that all the installers agreed with what I first said that these boilers were generally reliable and virtually all the faults were caused by dirt in the system.

Very unfortunately its difficult for us individually to come to a conclusion about the cause of burst hoses etc.

Apparently the replacements now are a new type so perhaps the origina ones were more susceptable to some chemicals than the latest.

Tony

 

[watson306]

fit the filter first. That way if you put in chemicals and it loosens up any sludge in your system its more likely to collect in the TF1 and not the boiler.

Thanks again Mickyg.

I have read somewhere else - that if I am not going to powerflush the best chemical to put in and leave in for a bit is Sentinel x400, and then empty out and then put in x100.

Would that be your recommendation?

I am currently looking into your filter recommendation - is the fernox TF1 the best on the market? Also what would you say is the best value for money TF1 as money is tight?

Cheers

 

[Agile]

The best vaslue for money is a gauze filter with an isolating valve.

They cost less than £12 and catch any solid dirt. The only downside is they need to be cleaned regularly.

They also need to be mounted with the opening nut facing downwards and NOT in accordance with any arrow on the case.

Tony

 

[mickyg]

fit the filter first. That way if you put in chemicals and it loosens up any sludge in your system its more likely to collect in the TF1 and not the boiler.

Thanks again Mickyg.

I have read somewhere else - that if I am not going to powerflush the best chemical to put in and leave in for a bit is Sentinel x400, and then empty out and then put in x100.

Would that be your recommendation?

I am currently looking into your filter recommendation - is the fernox TF1 the best on the market? Also what would you say is the best value for money TF1 as money is tight?

Cheers

Yes you could try x400, but I would leave it in for at least 3 weeks as its a very mild chemical. It might be better tbh as x800 not used by a pro could disturb some monsters.
I personally use the TF1, its just my prefference of the 3 main products in this market, magnaclean, TF1 and Spirotech magnabooster.
The magnaclean is probably the most effective but has had numerous issues with leaks. The magnabooster is without doubt the best build quality but it doesn't appear to collect alot of debris. The TF1 imo is a happy medium, and I've not til now had any issues with it.
This test was(apparently!) independant. http://www.adeysolutions.co.uk/ProductComparison.asp
It shows the magnaclean as most effective but thats no good if its leaking all over the floor.

 

[simond]

We have seen all these faults on ecoTECS.

I dispute the water quality being the cause because we have been getting these same issues where Vaillant/Sentinel have approved the post-Powerflush water results in order to get our five year warranty.

Vaillant know about the problems because in all cases steps have been taken to iron them out. The water pressure switch design has been changed; the rubber hoses have been replaced with copper flexible mounted, and I believe the diverter design has been improved.

I had to change a pressure sensor on a brand new 615 only last week on a Sunday for one of my customers - not impressed.

Rep is visiting tomorrow......

However, I think the OP has been unlucky, because these faults rarely all occur in 5 years and I still believe the Vaillant combi design is the best currently out there. If they could sack all their UK management it would be so much better on the backup side....

 

[watson306]

Thanks Guys for all your advice.

Anyway, today I firstly fitted the TF1, and that went smoothly, I then fitted the new diverter valve, and that is where my problems started:

When I turned it back on the hot water was working, but it would not heat the central heating system - the CH flow out of boiler was hot, but the CH flow back into boiler was cold. I believe the first radiator the pipe work goes to is the bathroom tail rail, with just standard valves on and it seemed that the pipe on the left hand side was hot up to and including the valve, but the tail rail was not hot at all - I realise I must have an air lock or something but bleeding the the tail rail does not reveal any air just water.

Anyway I was trying to solve this all afternoon, and we still had hot water up until babies bed time, as she was able to have her normal bath, but afterward the boiler just froze and will not do anything - including no hot water, but is not showing any error codes - I am hoping that its just that its got too hot because it cant pump water completely round the system so I have switched it off to see if it will come back on shortly.

So if anyone can advise on either issue I would appreciate it?

Cheers

 

[lightning]

Is aav open on boiler,

 

[watson306]

Is aav open on boiler,

Thanks for your quick response Lightning.

Sorry - what is aav?

Cheers

 

[watson306]

Is aav open on boiler,

Thanks for your quick response Lightning.

Sorry - what is aav?

Cheers

Quick Update :-

I have just restored power to boiler and we now have hot water.

So I just need to get the central heating working.

I have turned the thermostat down for the time being so it doesnt work too hard trying to pump water around the system.


But any advise on this one would be appreciated.

 

[watson306]

BUMP

 

[harold5]

aav is auto air vent on the pump, isolation valves switched on?

 

[watson306]

aav is auto air vent on the pump, isolation valves switched on?

Thanks Harold5

Anybody know how I check this on a Eco Tec 831?

Have also wondered if I need to bleed the boiler (ie the pump, but dont know how?)

Cheers

 

[watson306]

aav is auto air vent on the pump, isolation valves switched on?

Thanks Harold5

Anybody know how I check this on a Eco Tec 831?

Have also wondered if I need to bleed the boiler (ie the pump, but dont know how?)

Cheers

I think I understand now what you guys mean by aav - is it the small black thumb cap on top of the pump?

If so - is is not tight, but how tight should it be?

Cheers

 

[watson306]

Just been searching the forums on here, and I have read that the little screw on the diverter valve is for the microswitch, and similar issues have been resolved by adjusting that screw.

Is it worth a try?, and which way should I turn?

Cheers

 

[lightning]

aav is auto air vent on the pump, isolation valves switched on?

Thanks Harold5

Anybody know how I check this on a Eco Tec 831?

Have also wondered if I need to bleed the boiler (ie the pump, but dont know how?)

Cheers

I think I understand now what you guys mean by aav - is it the small black thumb cap on top of the pump?

If so - is is not tight, but how tight should it be?

Cheers

It should be loose to allow air to escape