vauxhall combo 1.7 di

  • Thread starter mickyyoungplumb
  • Start date
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mickyyoungplumb

Right my van cut out the other day and wouldnt restart. I parked it up and went home. Collected the next day and it started, then after ten mins driving same thing. Left it a few hours then bingo she started.

Long story short everyone is saying its the ecu, some saying the edu.
AA come out and said theres no diesel being supplied, so its the ecu or pump. He told me i could take the ecu off and have a look for damage. I did this and had some rouble getting the backplate off. When i did it was covered in a jelly type solution, a bit of it wa squashed and right in the corner there is three thin wires each one connecting two points tohgether. one was broke, im not sure if i done this getting the plate off or this would be the damage. A pic of the damage to the unit is below, can someone tell me if this broken link would stop the van working or if i have the wrong unit out and now iv ****ed that one too!
 
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You've broken one of the earthing leads - nothing to lose too much sleep over. If you can, bridge the broken pad across to its neighbour, otherwise I suspect it'll work fine without that one pin.

Otherwise put it back and get the EDU out. The ECU's are not serviceable because of all the jelly inside them, and need programming to the car if you're going to replace it, but even so it's more likely to be dry solder joints on the EDU as I keep telling you, and as I instructed in my guide.
 
yes mr mfarrow you have been a great deal of help, i suspected it was earthing as it was the same in all four corners. lthough i was stressing out like a mother ****er thinking iv broke and unrelated part. I will try bridge some cable and put it back. One thing about that. It has a k and an m marked on it. hich way does it go back in??#


And can i get the edu out from the top?? as i only have a small normal jack and do not want the car falling on me, knowing my luck! lol
 
I think from memory that the two plugs are keyed so you can't fit it upside down as it were, just make sure you don't force them back (though a little push on the pull-out securing clip as you push it down does help).

Unfortunately the EDU cannot be accessed from the top, at least not removing a great deal of pipes and possibly the pump also. Axle stands should be fairly cheap, and you're wise not to attack this job without them. One should go either side of the sub-frame, just behind the lower arms, and there should be a slight axle-stand-sized depression in the subframe to guide you to the right spot.
 
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well, ive had the edu out. Im used to working in tight spots on boilers. I done the top 2 bolts from above, and within a minute with the van jacked up just loosened both bottom bolts from underneath and unclipped the wire. Then i manage to loosen and remove the edu from above.

When i opened it up, bearing in mind i have no magnifying glass, i could visibly see a burnt one which looked cracked all round the bottom side. This must be the issue??/ i thought i see 3 other little ones cracked but mayby it was just my mind playing tricks.

Anyway i added some solder but am not sure i have done a very good job. Messy and blobby, but im guessing this will not matter to much. Im waiting for the silicone to go off then refit. Im actually excited!! lol and dont want to be let down. hances are it was just the main burnt one i see?? right??
is there any effect if ive added too much solder or added to ones that wasnt cracked?
 
You cannot add too much, but some flux will have helped it flow. The important thing is that you got the pad nice and hot so all the solder melted/re-flowed.

Best to do more pads than strictly necessary as they'll be the next ones to go! Many have had repairs fail pre-maturely due to the new joints being nice and rigid but the neighbour then fails, so good to be on the safe side.

Well done for getting it out. I wouldn"t have thought it possible on an Astra, let alone a Corsa/Combo!
 
honestly mate, I'm all arms and fingers! im only slight so can slip me arms in anywhere! i put it back completely from above. Very difficult i might add, but better than the jack slipping.

I have just been reving the crap out my van and it hasnt cut out........ are there any tests i can do rather than start driving it about? If the problem was still there, would it cut off if i just left the engine running???

With the engine started can i crack a nut and see if there is diesel present in the tube? or is that dangerous?

If i have cracked it, i owe you big time
 
If it's starting and running then there's definitely diesel present :D

The pump's not common-rail on these, so it only supplies diesel to the injectors when required. So it won't be gushing out quite as much if you do crack a nut, but if you have a running engine, I'd say why bother.

I'd start driving it if I were you, especially if it's now warm and hasn't given any problems. If it cuts out again you can kick yourself for doing a crap job of soldering, but it'll only mean you'll have to take the back off and try again. ;)
 
I done the best soldering i could with my £5.67 iron that i bought! It was either that or put me gas gun on it! lol big no no

Been to the shops and back, not kicking **** out the exhaust no more which is onbiously a good sign. So would you say if it hasnt cut out after a few drives then it should all be good?

So, if i can remove an ed from the topside of the engine, would you say i'm competent enough to change my air, feul and oil filters? and change the oil?
Iv got the haynes maintenence manual.
 
Put it this way, I had a couple of end feed solder joints I made recently which ****ed like an elephant, but I doubt anyone on here could have told me if they were any good or not before I turned the water on.

As long as you got the iron hot and you saw the solder melt all round the joint then I'd say you were OK, but I can't give you cast iron gurantees any more than you could with my plumbing calamity. Crap out the exhaust on start-up was a favourite hobby of my Astra before that was fixed, so with that gone it's a good sign it's holding.

If you're still unsure, you could always take it to a TV repair man at some point (do they still exist???) and pay for an hour of his time to reflow the joints.
 
points taken, well im a plumber so i should hope i did get the solder flowing! Its def not cutting out when it would before and i notice theres not as much exhaust crap even when it was working before so all seems good. Thanks for your time and patience. Top bloke
 
Anyway i added some solder but am not sure i have done a very good job. Messy and blobby, but im guessing this will not matter to much. Im waiting for the silicone to go off then refit. Im actually excited!! lol and dont want to be let down. hances are it was just the main burnt one i see?? right??
is there any effect if ive added too much solder or added to ones that wasnt cracked?
No messy & blobby is NOT good.

Both parts of the joint should be cleaned and then heated. Proper cored solder applied to both surfaces, NOT the soldering iron, which, provided both parts were heated sufficiently, would cause the solder to flow and make a good joint. Extra flux is not need to make a good joint.

Bit like making a good end-fed really, bread and butter for a decent plumber. Electrical solder joints should have same smooth silver appearance a copper plumbing joint has.

Sorry but if you are a heating engineer do you not know what a good solder joint looks like?

My experience? Heating engineer who could solder pipes professionally and in a previous life a TV engineer, agreed a disappearing trade.

well im a plumber so i should hope i did get the solder flowing!
Not if the result was blooby as you said.
 
Go away last poster.
Im a good heating engineer, stop attempting to insult me you pleb. The van works therefore the joint was good. Go an insult someone else you muppet. No time for people who want to insult and cuss over a screen.
 
Sorry if you are upset, as they say the truth often hurts.

If the joints were reasonably clean then you will have contact but given time with an outside damp environment for how long. Not my problem.

Suggest though a goggle search for electronic equipment soldering will give you an idea what a good joint should look like!

My advise is based on many years in the electronic repair trade prior to entering the boiler repairs one and repaired more printed circuit boards than you could imagine.

Remember it is given in good faith and for free accept it in the spirit it was given and intended certainly no abuse from you is necessary.
 
Just read this. I wouldn't use the "acid cure" type silicon sealant where there are electronics. The acetic acid will have been released during the cure and will eat away at the board. You can get "neutral cure" sealant or one specifically for electronics that doesn't release acid.
I don't have much real world experience of this, but many years ago we had "intrinsically safe" electrical test equipment which had been sealed (presumably) with the acid stuff and subsequently failed. There is plenty about using the right stuff for electronics on the net.
Sorry I didn't see this earlier.
 
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