vauxhall combo 1.7 diesel oil in water tank

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So woke this morning and noticed lots of oil under the van, popped the hood and oil was over spilling out of the water tank!

I cleaned it off and drove the van, it was not overheating at all and drove fine, any ideas on what my problem is?

The little spanner light has been comng on and off for a while.

I had my timing belt done a few months back, not sure if its anyything the mechanic wold have done?

I will not be fixing myself but i like to go to the mechanic equipped with info
 
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It will almost certainly be the head gasket leaking I'm afraid, worst scenario would be a cracked head but unless its boiled I don't think that likely. I don't think those engines are to difficult to work on although I haven't done one myself.

Peter
 
Oil cooler

Disconnect the water pipes from it and connect both together with a piece of copper pipe.

Refill coolant and test, if no oil in coolant replace cooler. Usually located between the oil filter and engine, you will notice the water/coolant pipes.

A lot cheaper than a head gasket, so hopefully its the problem?
 
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Firstly, thanks to the guys who have replied.

Secondly why on earth would this be a joke? I am not a mechanic, I am a plumber looking for some advice. I thought head gasket straight off but there is no signs of water in the oil like milky residue on the dipstick or oil cap so I wanted peoples opinions and I have got two different ones which proves its worth coming on here. Especially as I heard oil cooler off someone else as well. Was it worth your time asking if this is a joke? If you have nothing good to say don't say it.
 
Hello peter and mursal,

The van was not overheating at all and I did even drive it for 15minutes earlier as I had no choice. I have had my daughter all day but have now had a better look.

There is no milky residue inside the oil cap or the dipstick which I am led to believe is signs of water in the oil. The oil level has completely diminished and the coolant tank is filled with pure oil. Still both think the same diagnosis?

Mursal, I do not really have much knowledge at all with my van. So I am unsure what pipes to disconnect, do I need to drain anything down first?
 
Mursal could be right I had forgotten about the oil cooler - senior moment - another one.

Peter
 
that's ok, that is a lot of peoples first thought. I have been reading some interesting posts with people who have by passed the cooler and all is fine, then fitted a new cooler and 6 weeks later have the same problem. Im hoping It is the oil cooler then
 
I double checked your engine and not sure what cooler you have? But this might be it, if not put your vans age in as well?
http://www.ebay.ie/itm/Vauxhall-Oil...arts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item461fb8ef17

If this is your one, locate it on the engine. To replace you will need to loosen the coolant pipes allowing the coolant to escape. Then undo the oil joint (see 2 O rings will be) under the bolts. Clean off surface and replace old O rings with new and replace/tighten bolts. Replace coolant hoses and refill with coolant.
You will need to clean the coolant system out before fitting a new unit.
To test just join coolant hoses with copper pipe and refill with coolant/top up oil.
Just remember the cooler will still be leaking oil while under test, just to the outside not into the coolant system.
 
mursal please excuse my ignorance, I have read a lot of threads now and it seems a common problem with my vehicle. It is a 53 plate by the way. Lots of people are saying they permantly by pass the cooler as they have persistent problems.

They are two smaller pipes on the coolant expansion tank, are they the hoses that come from the oil cooler. Do I by pass them? or is it actually at the cooler I by pass?

I have a Haynes manual but it is saying I need to remove lots of components to get to it. Is there an easy way?

People are saying bypass the two hoses going in to the oil cooler?

If I can do it myself, for the sake of £80 I would buy a new one
 
Best to bypass it for testing down at the cooler, to ensure you only disconnect the cooler nothing else. If you bypass permanently you will have nothing cooling the oil which may cause premature turbo failure, the engine oil will certainly need to be changes more often. But that's up to you.
If you go for a permanent bypass you will have to do something with the oil feed to the cooler, as its still leaking, do they give any advice on this?
As you know, like most things the cost is in the fitting not the cost of the actual part. Local garage might not be to bad and will give you a second opinion for free?

Peter senior moments are common around here too ..............
 
mursal as I say I don't have much knowledge on cars but I am very practical. I am a heating engineer. All people have said is that they bypass the two feeds at the oil cooler. That's all I know, I have a very irate customer who I have cancelled a job on tomo. So it would be temp for a couple of days.

From what I read, the cooler is only necessary if towing a trailer or carrying heavy loads but I understand the importance of cooling the oil.

Being a plumber, does the cooler work like an indirect cylinder and boiler? but instead of a boilers hot water heating a cylinder .... the coolan expansion tank cools the oil passing through the cooler. Is iit like a plate heat exchanger? cooler has an oil inlet and outlet and a separate water inlet and outlet running to and from the coolant expansion? correct?
 
Yes, the oil cooler is a simple heat exchanger, as you will appreciate leakage between the two chambers will cause transfer of fluids from one to the other and as the pressure in the oil system is much higher than the coolant that determines which way it will go.

Peter
 
We only ever bypass for testing, because I don't know how to bypass the oil feed/gallery safely? But someone on the other forums might?
 
I had 3 mechanics not want the job, one came out and said defo oil cooler due to my whole coolant tank and rad being full of oil.

After no one wanted to do it, I bought one from euro car parts. Sacked the Haynes manual off, swapped it completely from the top, not removing anything else bar one cable tie holding a cable in front of a bolt. Easy enough, then I realised why no one wanted to do it, took me ages to clear enough oil to get circulation, eventually internal heater was warm so I took that as a good sign. Problem is now, it's still full of really oily water. Seems impossible to clean. Engine oil level staying the same so I think prob fixed. My street looks like an oil tanker went over and cleaning the coolant system seems impossiblw
 
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