Vertical brick laying above bifold door

[wyk126]

I saw some builder lay the brickwork vertically above the bifold door( potientially on the steel beam), some are not. Why is that? Better structural support or purely decorative?

Another question, my builder is confused with this structural section drawing for that part, is the steel beam gonna “ exposed “ from outside?? how to lay the brickwork for that?

Many thanks

 

[Charlie George]

The plate should be on the outside and internal blockwork sat on beam, the soldier course above the lintel is for aesthetics, either way is ok.

 

[^woody^]

Im confused too. The section drawing has bricks on the beam and blocks on the plate. That plate will also bend if formed like that.

 

[stuart45]

Common woody, you know as well as me the hatching symbols for brick and block. Cross section of the beams showing a soldier course and coursing block.

 

[Charlie George]

Common woody, you know as well as me the hatching symbols for brick and block. Cross section of the beams showing a soldier course and coursing block.

Well spotted, it was 6am when i posted.

 

[^woody^]

Common woody, you know as well as me the hatching symbols for brick and block. Cross section of the beams showing a soldier course and coursing block.

No way!

That can't be a soldier on the right, it's about 3x as high as it is wide.

 

[stuart45]

That's what happens when you buy cheap Chinese scale rules.

 

[noseall]

If anyone has found a reliable way of getting low suction bricks to behave (laid soldier) whilst on a long span Catnic, can they let me know please.

 

[stuart45]

Only way I know that helps a bit is setting up timbers to take the leading edge of the brick. Helps that you can mark out the gauge on it. Laying Staffs is always nightmare stuff on a job like that.
Timber has to be spot on though.

 

[noseall]

Only way I know that helps a bit is setting up timbers to take the leading edge of the brick. Helps that you can mark out the gauge on it. Laying Staffs is always nightmare stuff on a job like that.

We use acros to prop the lintel and take advantage of the slight screw adjustment available to nudge the leading edge of the Catnic, without unseating it off its mortar bed. I have learned not to faff too much with the soldiers until I’ve got at least three course of stabilising bricks above. I then use a straight edge to nudge any errant leaners back where they belong. The art is having just enough pressure on the prop so that it does not lift the lintel but not slack enough so that it falls out and kills the labourer.

 

[stuart45]

That's the key with these type of bricks, leave them till they have gone off a bit before getting the 14lb sledge and a 4x2 to make slight adjustments to them.

 

[^woody^]

If anyone has found a reliable way of getting low suction bricks to behave (laid soldier) whilst on a long span Catnic, can they let me know please.

The old block or brick trick placed over the soldiers and inner leaf every 500mm or so as you go, then one course on top and let that go off.

Our old instructor would slap your head for every time you tapped a brick laid on a lintel. Those were the days.

 

[catlad]

Nose get yourself a couple of piher props a lot easier to use than accro's

 

[noseall]

Nose get yourself a couple of piher props a lot easier to use than accro's

We have to sets of lightweight screw type props (rubber tilting plates screw at both ends thingys) and a pair of ratchet type lifter props, all for plaster boarding. I like the broad plates on the acros.