very high gas bill

Some of the older ones just had a thermocouple with no overheat stat.

I would argue that, and I certainly have never seen one, unless the fitter forgot to fit it. :rolleyes:

The instructions were quite clear on every model and size, the overheat thermostat, was fitted on the opposite side to the flow.

I was at one last summer with no overheat stat.


Thermocouple was done which I changed but only got involved because it was in an outhouse detached from the house.

Think it was a CF 60 from memory.

The ones with the overheat stat don't have an interrupter on the TC they have OH module on the front of the boiler as I recall with small red reset button.are

We talking about the same boiler,Ideal Concorde CFs?
 
Sponsored Links
Some of the older ones just had a thermocouple with no overheat stat.

I would argue that, and I certainly have never seen one, unless the fitter forgot to fit it. :rolleyes:

The instructions were quite clear on every model and size, the overheat thermostat, was fitted on the opposite side to the flow.

I was at one last summer with no overheat stat.


Thermocouple was done which I changed but only got involved because it was in an outhouse detached from the house.

Think it was a CF 60 from memory.

The ones with the overheat stat don't have an interrupter on the TC they have OH module on the front of the boiler as I recall with small red reset button.are

We talking about the same boiler,Ideal Concorde CFs?

There are probably without counting a 100 or more Concorde's

The CF 60 is a small 18Kw ish domestic boiler, we are talking industrial/commercial.

From memory and I could if you so desired check, but none of the Concorde's had an interrupt in the thermocouple, they had a little red reset button, and an overheat stat in the water jacket, which was connected direct to the gas valve
 
Just for information, this concord has a thermocouple linked to the gas valve as you would expect. It also has the boilerstat at the top connected to a tube. The temperature goes up to 90 on the dial but it wont turn past 70. There is a small green button on it.

We had another one from about 1968 where there was a thermocouple and a boiler stat but no reset switch. It was in a bright orange case complete with pasty/sausage roll marks around the 8" asbestos flue. It was lovely. It was decommisioned about 2 years ago and was removed 6 weeks ago.

I was not aware that air source heat pumps were available for wet heating systems. I was meaning the more traditional air conditioning type setup which the building has covering most areas.

On the topic of heat losses, I went over yesterday and the heating was on full pelt, one of the offices had the A/C on and the windows were open. Why you ask? because it was too hot!. The mere thought of turning the rads down was totally alien and the day they understand the concept of a TRV the world will truly end.
 
... we have just had a monthly gas bill of £1800. ... what should I be checking installation wise. ... How can I check the meter is working correctly

Isn't it strange how so many contributors berate British Gas for the way they regularly persuade punters to replace boilers unnecessarily and then do the same themselves, as in this topic :?: :confused:

As Doitall says, from your meter readings the gas consumption per minute is correct for the size of boiler. The high gas bill can therefore only be caused by the boiler running for much longer than usual.

Several explanations:

1. Changes in the time the boiler is turned on/off;
2. No Boiler interlock - the boiler keeps running after the room stat has clicked off;
3. Wall stat faulty or set too high;
4. TRV in same room as Wall stat with TRV set to a lower temperature than the wall stat. The TRV will shut the rad off at, say 20C, but, if the wall stat is set to 22C it will never reach temperature in a million years, so the boiler just runs and runs;
4. Boiler thermostat faulty
5. Unnecessary heat loss - windows left open with the TRV set to max!
6. Staff fiddling with the controls. Put lockable TRVs on the rads or set the limiters (if possible). Replace room stat with a secure/lockable version
7. External temperatures much lower than normal.
 
Sponsored Links
D_Hailsham,
I fully endorse everything you are saying and would like to go further by saying 40% of the heat is going straight up the stack :eek: :eek:
 
Hi,

I have found the problem.

The boiler uses about 522 cubic meters a month. That is 5829.4kWh. We are charged 1.3p per unit which is about £75 We then get charged £45 per DAY for the privelage of having the gas supply.

A few alterations to the billing method and we are sorted.

We are saving gas now anyway as the boiler has broken down again :( Currently waiting for engineer number 2, the boiler Guru?
 
johno wrote

one of the offices had the A/C on and the windows were open. Why you ask? because it was too hot!.
The mere thought of turning the rads down was totally alien

Shut the boiler system down and let the A/C cover the heating/cooling load.
As for the windows I would silicone them shut. :!:
And fit a dummy stat on the wall for the dummies to play with. ;)
 
D_Hailsham,
I fully endorse everything you are saying and would like to go further by saying 40% of the heat is going straight up the stack :eek: :eek:

I agree, but 40% has been going up the stack ever since the boiler was installed, so it could not be the possible cause of any sudden increase in costs. (Wrong Tariff as it turns out - but that's another story ;) )
 
D_Hailsham,
I fully endorse everything you are saying and would like to go further by saying 40% of the heat is going straight up the stack :eek: :eek:

I agree, but 40% has been going up the stack ever since the boiler was installed, so it could not be the possible cause of any sudden increase in costs. (Wrong Tariff as it turns out - but that's another story ;) )

very true, and 40%=£720 to try and raise the outside temperature via the flue per month :eek:
 
Wouldn't it be cheaper to buy coats for people or employ eskimo's which are used to the cold climate and ditch the gas supply?
 
Normally you are charged per kw/hr which works out at £6975.00 :eek:

522 x 1.022640 x CV 39.2 divided by 3,6 = 5813 Kw hrs x cost
 
Some of the older ones just had a thermocouple with no overheat stat.

I would argue that, and I certainly have never seen one, unless the fitter forgot to fit it. :rolleyes:

The instructions were quite clear on every model and size, the overheat thermostat, was fitted on the opposite side to the flow.

I was at one last summer with no overheat stat.


Thermocouple was done which I changed but only got involved because it was in an outhouse detached from the house.

Think it was a CF 60 from memory.

The ones with the overheat stat don't have an interrupter on the TC they have OH module on the front of the boiler as I recall with small red reset button.are

We talking about the same boiler,Ideal Concorde CFs?

There are probably without counting a 100 or more Concorde's

The CF 60 is a small 18Kw ish domestic boiler, we are talking industrial/commercial.

From memory and I could if you so desired check, but none of the Concorde's had an interrupt in the thermocouple, they had a little red reset button, and an overheat stat in the water jacket, which was connected direct to the gas valve

Sorry my bad that should have read CF160 ,I know these are industrial units or bordering on which is one of the reasons I normally don't go near them.
 
I fully endorse everything you are saying and would like to go further by saying 40% of the heat is going straight up the stack.

... 40%=£720 to try and raise the outside temperature via the flue per month :eek:

Did you miss this?

Johno said:
I have found the problem.

The boiler uses about 522 cubic meters a month. That is 5829.4kWh. We are charged 1.3p per unit which is about £75 We then get charged £45 per DAY for the privelage of having the gas supply.A few alterations to the billing method and we are sorted.

So 40% was actually £30. Though I wonder what his monthly bill is on the new tariff?
 

DIYnot Local

Staff member

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Sponsored Links
Back
Top