Vokera Linea 24 Hot water problems.

[scatmanjohn]

The ones i have come across have been doing it constantly but i have no doubt they can be intermittent.

 

[Agile]

Remove the motor head and it should give a constant hot water as the diverter is then in the DHW position.

The motor should be in the pin recessed position and stay there until Ch is required.

That test should help to enable us to diagnose the fault and explain it to you. In the meantime just tell us the results.

Tony

 

[gas4you]

Buy a vokera diverter valve service kit. Take off motor actuator and replace parts in dv behind this. When they go they can be intermittent and sound like gravel rubbing together.

 

[pannierstan]

code 7 is primary thermistor open circuit i think.

check for a loose connection and replace it if you find nowt.

After replacing a DHW thermistor on a Vokera Linea the other week I am lead to believe that they have been having some 'issues' with Thermistors and are now on the forth version I think which is Blue plastic inner

Unfortunalty this was intermittant 06 code so appreciate not the same fault

Stan

 

[nickso]

code 7 is primary thermistor open circuit i think.

check for a loose connection and replace it if you find nowt.

After replacing a DHW thermistor on a Vokera Linea the other week I am lead to believe that they have been having some 'issues' with Thermistors and are now on the forth version I think which is Blue plastic inner

Unfortunalty this was intermittant 06 code so appreciate not the same fault

Stan

apart from a brief interlude of black plastic they have been blue since the model was launched. i think they now come as red but i was assured by vokera that the colour made no difference. i realise the potential folly of believing vokera on that but ive never had a problem with any colour of thermistor and they are used on models other than vokeras....some alphas are the same.

 

[emailpatch]

Thanks for all the replies,

I will do as you say this weekend and yes it is a graveley clicking sound.
Just for clarification so that I can get it staight in my own mind, Is the valve normally in the secondary heat exchanger circulate mode? so that when rads (CH) are on this then actuates the motor? I would have thought it was the other way round, hot water required so that it actuated and diverted the water around the DHW heat exchanger, and secondly does the thermistors tell the burners to regulate and if needed go out or does it just divert the water flow away from the DHW heat exchanger via the motorised control valve, (I would like to know what sends the signal via the PCB to divert the valve) like I say its very hit and miss at the moment and normally works fine when I want to try and diaognose.
Once again I really appreciate all your replies, expertise and sharing of knowledge.
Steve.

 

[Agile]

Remove the motor head and it should give a constant hot water as the diverter is then in the DHW position.

The motor should be in the pin recessed position and stay there until CH is required. It "rests" in the DHW mode.

That test should help to enable us to diagnose the fault and explain it to you. In the meantime just tell us the results.

Tony

 

[emailpatch]

Tony,

Removed the motor head as requested and the pin is in the furthest out position which means its pushing on the valve pin when in situ. when the hot water is run then, the boiler fires up but waters stone cold, has I thought without the valve pin being actuated (pushed in) the water does not circulate around the DHW heat exchanger so without the motor actuator the boiler is in fact in CH mode not hot water, when I manually push it in I can hear water flow and I get hot water, whats more worrying is the next time I tried the hot water the boiler fired up the pin withdrew inside the motor actuator and then when placed back in situ did not push on the valve so still not hot water (My original fault) I then turned off the tap looked again at the motor actuator, still the pin kept in and the boiler continued to run with no CH or hot water tap on or selected. This lasted for 5 mins with all the rads getting hot, I then turned the boiler to the off/reset position still it ran until I isolated the main power, once I turned back on the power the boiler went into standby mode and the motor actuator pin came out, i tried the water again the pin stayed out, placed back in situ and put in the retaining pin and hey presto hot water.
More info someone please explain
Steve.

 

[emailpatch]

One stage further, checked the wiring connection and the valve is the cause of my problem although its not failing when the water goes cold the live switches around on the solenoid(motorised valve) and diverts the water away from the HW heat exchanger and then back again to give me the hot water but the burners stay on all the time the tap is on.
Any ideas anyone.
Steve.

 

[clf-gas]

Sorry, not read all post to this thread but sure all info has been good, scatman the answer, Vokeras are known for valve sticking, easy to resolve, you need to strip and clean, follow installation and service manual for how to. If you aint got it, vokera.co.uk manuals in pdf.
You sound like an half intelligent bloke so get yuorself a multi meter from argos £25, can't go wrong.

Bloke with information on thermistor is bang on, but you would have seen burner in and out.

 

[emailpatch]

Thanks but as my previous post, the valve is not sticking, its getting a current from one side of the acctuator to the other in short the motorised valve is being told to open close open close ect via the voltage.

 

[gas4you]

It may be getting the voltage but have you actually looked at pin. This could be stuck.

If all ok then diverter may be stuck, replacement service kit available

 

[clf-gas]

Sorry Steve new to this site, did'nt explain enough like gas4you says suply can be there but pin not moving (at least not all the time) read your previous posts this is your problem. strip and clean or service kit as surgested..

 

[emailpatch]

Please read all previous posts.

In short, I've taken off the motor actuator and checked the mechanical valve by pushing it in manually, I then get hot water = valve ok, I've then turned my attention to the motor part and this retracts and pushes out depending on which side of the solenoid is fed, the problem seems to be the motor is getting conflicting signals (current feeds) to both sides while the boiler (hot tap) is turned on. The burners light as soon as you turn on the tap and sometimes the diverter valve pushes in to give hot water and other times it retracts sending the water down the rads but the rads are not switched on! thus going from hot water to cold intermittently. I need now someone to tell me why the boiler is sending voltage to both sides of the motorised diverter valve (one then the other)thus diverting the flow from HW to CH and giving me cold then hot water.
Hope this is clear

Steve.

 

[gas4you]

I thought that live & N to operate valve and the other live, often the brown I think, is the power signal to the boiler (pcb) to tell it it is in hot water mode, ie there is a micro swith inside like a traditional motorised valve. I don't think the pcb sends signals to both sides