Wall is wider than door lining - architrave dilemma

[lostinthelight]

There is another way I should tell you about which involves removing plaster and doesnt sink the architrave below the level of the wall surface .
It does however mean the skirting meets the architave not quite flat.If you set the architrave on the door lining set in 4to6mm from the edge and draw a line down the plaster. You then taper the plaster from the opening side of the line to the lining. This cocks the architrave at a slight angle to the wall surface.Ive done it several times and its not that noticeable

 

[conny]

There is another way I should tell you about which involves removing plaster and doesnt sink the architrave below the level of the wall surface .
It does however mean the skirting meets the architave not quite flat.If you set the architrave on the door lining set in 4to6mm from the edge and draw a line down the plaster. You then taper the plaster from the opening side of the line to the lining. This cocks the architrave at a slight angle to the wall surface.Ive done it several times and its not that noticeable

View attachment 196982

When I've tried this in the past I find my top mitres are a b*tch to get right.
I prefer the packing method as demonstrated in your very clear drawing. Top man.

 

[Jupiter01]

I’ve got my strips in today and set them in 10mm from the edge of the lining.


Architrave goes on tomorrow. Will I need to bisect the angle to find out what my mitre angle needs to be as the lining may not be plumb?

 

[Jupiter01]

Wrong pic sorry. Here’s an image of the wood pieces

 

[lostinthelight]

I’ve got my strips in today and set them in 10mm from the edge of the lining.

What happened to to 4-6mm lip?By fitting to the lining 10 mm back instead of flush to the architrave as suggested youve not left room for error or adjustment in cutting the mitre unless ive miss read the picture,

 

[Jupiter01]

Ohh
I’ve measure a 10mm gap and fitted the strip- assuming that the edge of the architrave will sit on it and the edge of the architrave and this strip will be flush at the front edge.

I can remove if this is wrong as I’ve only pinned it...

 

[lostinthelight]

Thats ok if youve decided on 10mm lip then...its just if,you mess up a mitre you may have to use a new piece instead of moving pieces a sawcut closer.
As for splitting the mitre , its hardly going to be enough out that caulk wont be able to correct unless your staining instead if painting.

 

[Jupiter01]

I went 10mm as the existing hinges were relatively deep and I wanted to clear these.

Ok. Should I cut the architrave at 45 degrees and then follow the strips for the fitting of the architrave? Any gaps where the vertical and horizontal architrave meets (Indicating that the corners are not 90 degrees), I can caulk and paint. Yes, I am painting white.

Also, I have a Makita MLS100 and shouldn’t mess up the mitre cuts unless you are referring to some other messing up opportunity?

Really appreciate your guidance

 

[Jupiter01]

I should add that I also own a bevel if that could be useful here

 

[Jupiter01]

I got the idea from this video

 

[Jupiter01]

UPDATE: First set of architraves went in today. Slight gap at the joints.. Acceptable?

All advice is gratefully received