Want set of LED strips/conventional desk lamps controlled by a single wall switch - how to specify?

[Cej238]

Hello,

We are building a 6x10m open plan extension with lounge, kitchen and dining areas. I want to have a set of soft lighting controlled by a single wall switch for each of the three areas.

Each area will cover things like LED strips above kitchen cupboards, leds set into bookcases, overhanging lights on shelves, and traditional free standing lamps that would otherwise be plugged into a wall socket. In the dining and lounge areas there will definitely be a mix of lighting types.

Unfortunately, I'm not clear on the exact design for any of the three areas, nor the specific light fittings that I'd want to use. I'll end up doing a lot of the subsequent construction (and low voltage) electrical work myself - when money permits, but I'm being pressed by my builder to provide detail for the first-fix electrics.

What would be the best way to specify first fix for each of these areas? Noting:

- Each point is £70 a throw and I'm trying to get back in budget.
- Is specifying a single wire to each area sufficient to let me do all the follow-on work without having to cut channels in my soon to be plastered walls? Any specifications in terms of amps/fusing?
- I have read that a 5amp, BS 546, round-pin plug is required for remotely switchable lighting appliances. This I presume would cover my intent to power any standard desk lamps and perhaps some LED strips. In each instance I would need to change the plug presumably. Is this right? Any obvious constraints? If I had a finalised design (and the money) I could presumably specify a whole bunch of BS 546 sockets in the right places. As it stands, I would either be guessing, or specifying one or two and managing with extension leads (which don't seem readily available to BS 546).
- In each of the three areas there will be a fair amount of furniture, so I have some flexibility in hiding wires on top of units, the back of shelves, behind coving etc.

Grateful for any help.

(And if anyone has suggestions for decent LED strip lighting systems that will be wall switch controlled, would be really keen to have recommendations.)

Thanks!

 

[Robin0577]

Yes, BS546 5 Amp sockets are conventional for remotely switched lighting. You're right that extension leads aren't readily available made up, but the trailing sockets to make your own are fairly easy to come by, you would generally use 3 core 0.75mm flex as required. https://www.10outof10.co.uk/acatalog/PLUGS-1.html (second item down) Alternatively, theatre lighting companies such as the one I linked to will make extension leads for you to your specification. One point though.. make sure you have enough 5 Amp sockets fitted, even if you have to guess at the locations, because double adapters, 4 way strips, etc. are very hard to come by in 5 amp versions.

 

[Cej238]

Thanks Robin. I took a look at that page.

Is use of BS546 just conventional? Or a requirement for some regulatory purpose, or just sensible safety reasons? I'm assuming it is to stop people plugging non-5A equipment into lighting rings?

Due to my own poor planning, I'm a bit stuck as I need to give an answer to my electrician yesterday. I'm really reluctant to guess about locations - partly because it would be just a guess, but also that I might end up wanting quite a few and I can't face the £70-per-point charge. Keen to think about what the alternatives might be that will let me do the work at a later date.

I'm not very knowledgeable when it comes to electrics, but could I ask:
- Lighting rings are 5A as standard.
- But they are rings, a big parallel circuit, so if they aren't fully wired up, they won't work.
- I assume my electrician is intending to put all the lights in the next extension on a single ring.
- So given I need lighting in the room soon, but I can't decide/can't afford how these sections will be configured (and the furniture to house it won't be built until the Spring) - I need a temporary solution. (Or I just guess...)

Would I be able to:
- Ask my electrician to put these remotely switchable areas of lighting on its own ring entirely. Not sure about the cost/feasibility of that or demands on my fusebox.
- Ask my electrician to include the three remotely switchable areas on the main lighting ring, leaving and area of cabling in each area exposed, either a small loop of 3 core, or a really long loop running along the wall where the lighting will be (6m in one case). This would allow the other lights to work, but allow me (or more likely another electrician) in the future to break into the ring, add additional lights using the sockets you linked to?
- Is there any scope in having such a loop terminated in a socket/connector that will make life easier when I get the work done in the future.

I'm not sure there is much of a practical difference to both of the above options.

It would be neater to have the BS546 sockets properly fixed into my walls, but I think I'll have enough flexibility with furniture to hide externally mounted sockets and wires.

Is this a sensible way to proceed?

I have attached my lighting plan that shows lounge/dining/kitchen areas of remotely switched "soft" light in case it helps (pink, white and bright yellow dots).

Many thanks!

 

[AndyPRK]

Light circuits are not on rings so don’t worry about that.

How about fitting some up lighters to the walls. £10 from screw fix.
Effective background light.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

What about putting the plastering on hold until you've got all the sockets and switches positioned?