water filter for suction line on plumbing

[shagty]

Hi everyone

I wonder if you might have experience with water filters for plumbing systems.

I have an electric shower (mira sport:no integral pump) upstairs and a boosted water supply (grundfos upa 15-90) from the CWS cistern in the attic of a 2-storey house. The system was installed about a year ago and is used about 2/3 times daily.

However, the shower filter needs to be removed and cleaned every 3-4 weeks to maintain sufficient water flow. The dirt that clogs the filter is a brownish-yellowish coloured substance while the mains water supply looks and tastes normal. There is a small film of this coloured substance across the bottom of the newish cistern.

This is becoming a nuisance and I'm considering fitting a larger/coarser inline filter before the shower, or maybe a full clean of the cistern. Any recommendations/suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks for reading.

Shagty

 

[Onetap]

However, the shower filter needs to be removed and cleaned every 3-4 weeks to maintain sufficient water flow. The dirt that clogs the filter is a brownish-yellowish coloured substance while the mains water supply looks and tastes normal. There is a small film of this coloured substance across the bottom of the newish cistern.

Probably limescale; look at the website of your water supplier and see if the water is hard, or have a look in your kettle. The next time you clear the filter, put some of the material in vinegar to see if it fizzes.

You'll get some limescale at the bottom of the storage cistern due to evaporation of some water. The inlet should be through a dip-tube to prevent the incoming water being atomized. The tank outlet should be from an inch or two up the side, so it doesn't draw in any sediment.

Make sure the cistern is insulated as well. The water should always be well below 20 degC, or it becomes a breeding ground for any bacteria that gets in there.

 

[shagty]

hi onetap

thanks for your response. would you have web link on float valves with dip-pipes as this would help reduce splashing noise as well. I presume the dip pipe is vented to avoid back siphonage.

it sounds like the water velocity near the inlet could be stirring up the deposits at the base. do you think a short length of pipe could be forced into the suction pipe inlet to move turbulent water away from the base?
cheers

s

 

[Onetap]

hi onetap

thanks for your response. would you have web link on float valves with dip-pipes as this would help reduce splashing noise as well. I presume the dip pipe is vented to avoid back siphonage.

it sounds like the water velocity near the inlet could be stirring up the deposits at the base. do you think a short length of pipe could be forced into the suction pipe inlet to move turbulent water away from the base?
cheers

s

The dip pipe comes with the float valve, I'd just replace the valve rather than mess about trying to amend it. There's a good range here, with little diagrams so you can see what they look like.
http://www.bes.co.uk/

The dip tube is usually polythene tube that is sucked flat by any back-siphonage. The Fluidmaster pro and Torbeck valves are quieter than a traditional brass valve, but achieve this partly by slowing the flow down a lot. I've got a Torbeck & it can't be heard in the adjacent loft-room; the water enters the tank at a trickle, but it has never yet been run dry.

 

[shagty]

Thanks for the link adn tips. All very helpful indeed. I have a fluidmaster valve from an old WC but I wasn't sure the plastic would be durable enough for MWS. Will give it a shot some evening. Cheers S